There are many places around the country that do not have a community sewage system, and resolve their sewage disposal needs with a septic system. This is a self-contained sewage processing system that can work for many years if cared for properly. Liquid and solid waste from toilets, sinks, tubs, showers, dishwashers and garbage disposals is processed and neutralized in this system. A conventional septic system is made up of a tank (varying in size depending upon the square footage, number of residents and plumbing fixtures of the house), a drain or leach field, and the gravel and soil under and above the drain field. The tank is usually buried near the house and is connected to the house drain plumbing with solid pipe. Solid waste settles to the bottom of the tank and forms sludge that deteriorates with bacterial activity. Liquid waste moves on to the next chamber of the tank and after further settling of suspended particles, it exits the tank near the top and flows to the drain field, often through a distribution tank that is connected to several seperate drain lines. Course gravel is placed into trenches with 2-3 feet below the drain pipe and 1-2 feet above it. The drain pipe is usually about 4″ diameter perforated pipe that is installed on the level so that the liquid will not flow to the far end, but will “leach” out through the holes all along its length. Some land configurations require the waste to be pumped uphill to the tank, or to the drainfield. There are also some newer generation systems that have much larger drain lines that are closer to the surface and rely more on evaporation at the ground surface than percolation into the soil. These systems are much more expensive, but are required in certain areas where the soil type or proximity to waterways and lakes restrict the use of the more primitive system. I want to point out  a few factors in keeping your septic system functioning well over the long haul.

• Water Conservation. Too much water can overload the system and cause the drainfield to get water logged. Plan to do laundry over a few days rather than all at once. Repair leaky faucets or running toilets. Use lower flow shower heads and water conserving toilets. Keep rain water runoff from accumulating on or near the drainfield.
• Trees. One of the worst contributors to drainfield failure is the growth of tree roots into the drain pipes through the perforations in the pipe. Trees should be kept well away from the drainfield. Some suggest a minimum of 100′ and even more for aggressive trees like willows.
• Disposals. There are a number of items that should never be flushed down a toilet, like coffee grounds, cigarette butts, kleenex, paper towels, tampons, sanitary napkins and cat litter. These all tend to expand and clog a septic system. Also, a garbage disposal should grind food into very small particles that are easier for the system to handle. Grease should not be poured down drains either as it really gums up the pipes and tank.
• Chemicals. Heavy-duty cleaners and chemicals (especially hazardous things like varnish, paint thinners, oil and gasoline) tend to kill the beneficial bacteria that is essential for the system to function properly. Don’t dispose of these into your plumbing system.
• Damage Prevention. It is unwise to drive heavy vehicles over the tank or drainfield, or build any structures on them. It is a good idea to simply plant grass and make a nice lawn over the drainfield area.
• Maintenance. Every 3-5 years the sludge should be pumped from the tank by a septic pumping service provider. There are several bacteria starters/enhancers that can be added to the system once a year. I used a commercial-sized pack of Brewers yeast once a year upon the suggestion of an old-timer, and never had the problem of too much solid buildup in the tank. This is a relatively cheap solution to enhance the growth of bacteria. The yeast is flushed down toilets in the house.

A septic system that is cared for can last many years and provide excellent sewage disposal service.

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