Posts Tagged ‘lawncare’

Fall Garden Clean Up – Part 2

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

pruning

Part 2 of my series on Fall Garden Cleanup – if you missed part 1, read about fall lawncare, readying perennials, fertilizing and mulching in the fall garden before continuing!

Pruning: Many people let the garden go late into the summer and then do their pruning of summer growth during their fall cleanup.  Fall is not a good time to prune. There are a small host of plants that can be pruned in the fall but, in general, you don’t want to do any big pruning in the Fall.  All your Spring or Summer flowering shrubs should have been pruned by now.  Your deciduous trees and shrubs will be running sap as they go dormant for the Winter so Fall is a very detrimental time to prune them. (Maples especially! their sap runs fast – why do you think we use them to make syrup?!)  Wait until winter for the deciduous plants.

If you prune any of your Spring flowering shrubs in fall you will be pruning off where the buds have set up for the coming Springs bloom. If you have to make some cuts then just cut what is really in the way (e.g. if you have a few branches  that grew over the phone line this summer and your worried a winter  snow on those branches might put undue weight on the lines), finishing the rest when Winter sets in.

Weeding:  Fall is one of the best times of the year to weed! Weed control is all about getting to the weeds before they set seed.  Summer blooming weeds are full of seeds that are drying on the vine – the next wind or rain will scatter them far and wide. So concentrate on getting those weeds in the Fall!  And get to any that are in bloom or done blooming as soon as you can so they don’t scatter seeds.  Learning when certain trouble weeds bloom and eradicating them before they do is a great way to substantially reduce weed problems.

Plant bulbs: Wait until Oct., at the earliest, to plant bulbs  – especially for an El Nino Winter (which is predicted for winter 2009).  Bulbs need to be kept chilled until you plant them, in a garage or a shady spot that gets no sun at all.  Then they should not be put in the ground until the soil temps are constantly low enough to keep the bulbs from warming and thinking it is time to grow.

One good rule of thumb for proper planting depth to follow is to plant the bulb half as deep as the height of the flower that bulb will produce. So a short little 3 inch Crocus should only be planted 1.5 inches deep and a tall 1 foot tulip should be planted 6 inches deep.

katsura leavesEnjoy: If you have been working on achieving diversity in your garden, then you’ll have a large array of plants that will be putting on their best show this time of year as they change into winter outfits.  Color changes,  berries from summer flowers, seed pods with dew and scents all have their best moments in the fall.

Here’s a tip for a great tree to plant  if you like scents in the garden and gorgeous fall color;  The dried fallen leaves of the Katsura tree ( Cercidiphyllum japonicum) smell like cotton candy when shuffled through!  I kid you not – and it is strong, not one of those “oh I kinda smell it” smells!  The fall leaf colors of this tree are also amazing!


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Fall Garden Clean Up – Part 1

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Fall is here and it’s almost time for the fall clean up in the garden to begin!

Here’s Part 1 of my easy list to get the garden ready “for bed” before the winter:

fall-lawnLawn: If you read my earlier post on plants to stop planting in the Pacific Northwest, you know what I think big, perfectly green lawns….but if you do have a lawn and you watered it sparingly through the hot summer months, you are probably noticing that it’s greening up on its own now that fall rains have started.

The lawn is coming out of it’s natural dormancy period right now and that makes it a great time to rake out the thatch from this summer and give it a fertilizing.  Fall is the best time to fertilize the lawn; be sure to use organic fertilizer (because we’re feeding the soil, not the grass itself), follow the rate on the bag as a guide, however, don’t worry about fancy applicators or applying exactly the amount on the bag – just throw it liberally down and water it well.

Fertilizing the Gardens: In general a mature garden that is being mulched on a regular basis will not need any supplemental fertilizing – too much can create unnatural growth that is unhealthy and  unsustainable.  If things are not as green or lush as you’d like, then try a year of mulching and proper watering before you use fertilizers.  If there is a deficiency in the soil and the plants still look “sick”, consult a professional landscaper to help you diagnose the problem. Throwing fertilizers around usually hurts more than helps.  In a new landscape the soil should have been fertilized upon planting and can be gently fertilized the next fall as well – usually two to three  ”doses” of an organic fertilizer coupled with regular mulching is enough to restart the natural biotic web of food production in the root zone that then will  sustain itself with regular mulching.

Perennials: Cutting back the perennials is a standard of fall clean up but needs to be done at the right time for the best growth for the next year. Remember that the leaves of your daylily or daisy etc. are making food for storage during  the winter, so should be left on as long as they are green.  Cutting back the whole plant after it is done flowering robs the plant of this important food gathering time so wait until they die back on their own or the first frost browns them. You can, of course, leave the foliage on the plant until Spring as the dead foliage is the plants natural protector from cold – but some find it unsightly and it can create a habitat for slugs and other critters to overwinter – so better to cut it back when it is ready and then mulch for a cleaned up garden look.

first bulbs thru mulchLeaves: Once all the leaves have come down you can either use them for mulch thru the winter or compost them.  Be sure to rake them off of the tops of plants and shake them off of the shrubs. To use as mulch, spread the leaves to a depth of no more than 2-3 inches on the bare soil areas of your garden.  Leaves do an excellent job of protecting your soil from harsh winter rains and protecting the shallow root zone of perennials and bulbs.  But don’t smother your perennials with leaves.  Rather just apply them as mulch right up to the perennials base. In severe cold weather save a pile of leaves in a compost heap that you can place on top of perennials (and remove when the worst has passed!).  In the Spring, when the first bulbs start to come up, rake up all the leaves and pile them to compost and mix into the soil when you do future planting or transplanting.

In part 2, I’ll cover fall pruning, weeds and bulb planting along with a tip on one of my favorite trees!  Stay tuned…


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