Posts Tagged ‘electrical’

We just bought a great house with character (yes, a bit older of a house)…now what?

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

sold home

I interviewed Eric Metzger, owner of “Fixit Once Repairs” – they do everything from home remodels to cleaning gutters and painting houses.  I asked Eric a variety  of questions on the step after the BIG STEP – buying a slightly older home.  What are some important aspects to consider in a “mature home” to ensure you get the most out of your new investment.  Read on to hear what Eric had to say!

What are some of the key factors to think about after buying an older home?

First, you should think about these before you buy the home. After you buy, it’s too late. Would you buy a used car without having a trusted auto mechanic inspect it and take it for a test drive?

Get an inspection done by a referred home inspection company (find a certified home inspector on HelpHive) other than your realtor’s.  Then work with a referred licensed contractor/handyman to determine what needs to be repaired based on the inspection.  For certain items, inspectors are forced to document as protection for both themselves and their insurance!  Everything else on the report will be cosmetic or safety issues that need to be taken care of, or might need to be done to secure financing. These costs can be negotiated as part of the purchase of the home – have some or all of the work completed before closing depending on who’s paying for the work.

What areas should I check first to ensure I’m not going to run into any problems?

Your inspector will cover the major ones in the report.   Structural, electrical, plumbing, moisture damage, evidence of pest infestation or damage caused from pests and/or wood destroying organisms, drainage, roofing, heating/cooling, and anything else visible during that inspection that is notable..

How can I determine if I have wiring issues aside from waiting for something to break?

This goes back to the inspection.   “Fixit Once Repairs” did a complete gut and rebuild of a home in Everett, due to an overloaded circuit in the garage.  The breaker didn’t trip causing a fire that did $115,000 worth of damage and took two months to complete. After gutting the home, the only items left were the exterior wall studs, siding, roof trusses and the sheathing on top of the trusses. All windows, doors, wiring, drywall, flooring, roof, insulation, cabinetry, fixtures, etc. were damaged from water and smoke. Electricity can be your friend if handled correctly and safely. It can cause lots of damage or worse if not respected.

How can I determine if I have plumbing issues aside from waiting for something to break?home-inspection

The inspection should identify any current issues. Once you own the home, inspect or have someone inspect all areas in the home where plumbing is accessible and visible, including attics, crawlspaces, and the garage. Where pipe, etc. run through walls, look for evidence of staining or water damage/leaks. Quarterly inspections by the homeowner and a yearly complete inspection is what Eric normally recommends.

What about insulation, windows and the furnace?  How do I ensure I’m going to be okay through the winter?

Insulation:

Age of the home will most likely determine the R value of the insulation in the walls of the home unless it has had extensive remodeling done. The higher the R value number, the better the resistance to allowing heat or cold into the home. The parts of the home that are accessible, such as crawl spaces and attics, may have been upgraded. Eric recommends R38 or higher in attics and R21 for walls/crawlspaces.  Eric recommends having non-insulated areas dealt with right away to conserve energy and reduce costs. Some insulation is better than none. Older homes that have not been upgraded could potentially have minimal or no insulation in the attic or crawl, and as little as R7 in the walls if any.  A home built in 1972, for example, was built with R7 in the walls and R13 in the attic. Current code is R21 for walls and R38 for attics.

Windows:

Vinyl or wood framed windows are better than aluminum because they don’t radiate the outside temperatures (heat/cold), like aluminum framed windows do. Dual pane (two sheets of glass with an air space in between) windows are better than single pane windows for insulation value as well as sound dampening. On new windows, look for a Low E rating (indicates a low energy rating which is good). If you don’t know if the windows in a home are dual pane or not, take a lighter or match and put it next to the window. If you see a reflection in the second pane, it is a dual pane window.

HVAC:

Furnaces or HVAC/heat pumps should have filters cleaned at least monthly and a maintenance service done by a qualified technician annually. A well maintained system will save you in the long run on both energy costs and repair bills. Dirt and dust is not the friend of an HVAC system or furnace.  Just like changing the oil and filters in your car, you need to change and/or clean the filters in your HVAC system.  There are many safety related items involving HVAC systems that could be dangerous or even fatal. If your home did not have the manuals for your system, check for a sticker on your system for the company/model/serial numbers and contact the company to request a copy.

The house has a basement.  What type of issues should I be prepared for or look for?

Moisture/water leaking through the walls or floor. If the exterior walls were not treated with a sealant or that sealant has deteriorated with age, the walls could start to have water leaking into the basement. If the foundation drainage system is damaged, clogged, or non existent, water could be standing underground against the wall of the basement and will eventually find a way in.  Basements inherently tend to be damp and moist and therefore you need to inspect for mold issues caused by lack of air flow and moisture. There is quite a bit of evidence on health issues caused by mold, so basement inspections should be taken seriously.

To learn more about Home inspection, visit the National Home Inspectors Website.


Lindsay on HelpHive

 
Posted in Handyman, Inspection Services | No Comments »

Add a Light or Electrical Outlet

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

ellightbulbDo you need a light over your sink? Is there a workspace that could use a recessed light? Do you need an extra outlet? What is involved in putting in these items?

Adding a light

  • Though it should be obvious please don’t attempt to tie new wiring into your system with the power on!
  • To add a switched light you need to run power to a switch and then to your light. Wired differently the power can go to the light first.
  • If there is attic access above your light location the light junction box can be placed from there. Wire can be fed down the wall to the switch location without disturbing sheetrock.
  • If there is no attic above, access must be gained to run wire, usually through selectively cutting drywall. You may have an outlet for a power source in a stud bay that lines up with a ceiling joist bay that will get you to your desired light location, limiting cut outs to just one in the ceiling near the wall. Your switch location may be perpendicular to the direction your ceiling joists are running requiring a 6″ wide cut from light to wall. If you don’t have an outlet in the stud bay you wish to place your switch in, you will need a horizontal swath cut out to run power from outlet to switch.
  • Though retaping, texturing, priming, and painting adds complexity,  getting light where needed or desired can be well worth it.
  • Lights take little power – so you can almost always add lights to an outlet circuit but wiring must be done correctly. You might consider hiring a professional electrician.
  • Wire mold, or a decorative cover for electrical wires can be useful to bring power in situations where it is not fully seen. An example would be taking power from an outlet to a switch and across several under cabinet florescents using wire mold because it isn’t that visible. Wire mold can look a little tacky on an open wall or across a ceiling to a light.
  • Lighting can also be extended with lighting rope or track lighting.

Adding an electrical outlet

  • From one outlet you can bring power to another. Sometimes you have access to the wall such as when replacing cabinets and can open up the stud bays, at a level that will be covered, in order to run your wire. You can run wire down to a point that will be covered by baseboard and make a run to your new location. With attic access it can pay to run wires straight up into attic, over to new stud bay, and down to new outlet location.
  • Adding additional outlets, in and of itself, adds no load to a circuit if they are for the sake of convenience. Consider though the added load of all the appliances or devices that will be placed on the circuit. Sometimes you can’t just tie into a run for your intended purpose and need to add a new circuit.
  • Another way to add receptacles is to carefully cut out enough drywall to allow for a double gang box. The original single gang is removed by pushing wires out of it, carefully cutting nails that attach it to studs without damaging sheetrock, and removing it.  The new box can be a remodel type which has tabs to grab drywall or the basic box type which attaches to studs with screws from inside the box.

JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive

 
Posted in Electrical | 1 Comment »

Not So Shocking Electrical Tips

By Doug
Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Most do it yourselfers will quickly grab a saw or hammer, maybe even a concrete trowel, and launch into a project without fear. This is usually not the case when that scary electricity is involved. What is it that makes us so hesitant? My conclusion is that what you don’t know could kill you, and most home project people have not taken the time to understand the basics about the electrical system in their home. It is not my plan to give you step-by-step instructions for wiring your own home, but I will try to dispell some of the mystery and “fright” factor involved.

  • Rules. Electrical work is very logical, based upon very specific rules and methods. If something is not working in the system, there is a discernable reason and a process of troubleshooting through which you can track down the problem. It is much less complicated than electronic devices (like DVD players and TVs), having only a few different components that do very dedicated kinds of jobs for us.
  • At the Center. The Main Panel is the heart of the home electrical system. This is the place where the Utility company’s power supply (usually 220 volts with three wires) is attached to your home through a meter that measures the amount of energy you use over a period of time. Power moves through the meter and into the Main Breaker which distributes the power (110 volts each side) onto two metal (usually aluminum) bars. Individual breakers are attached to those two bars and when turned “on”, pass electricity on to whatever “load” (dryer, furnace, lights, receptacles) they are connected to by way of wire running throughout your home. Even though it may be inconvenient to do so, one way of limiting your exposure to “live” power in the main panel, is to turn off the main breaker whenever you are making changes in the main panel enclosure, keeping in mind that the large wires coming in from the meter are still “hot” and need to be avoided at any exposed point (bare wire) where they are connected to the main breaker.
  • Loads. There are wires hidden in your walls and attic and perhaps under your floor. These carry power from the main panel to a variety of power “users” called loads. In each room you will see receptacles which are wired into circuits (a few of them chained together on one wire leading back to the main panel). When any appliance, lamp or other power user is plugged into a receptacle, it draws power from the panel, through the wire, through that receptacle. Most rooms have a light switch and a ceiling light fixture. The switch acts simply as a “break” in the power until you turn it “on” and power moves from the panel through the switch and onto the light. Some specialized receptacles are found at electric dryers and electric ranges. These are connected to special breakers that take power from both of the bars in the main panel, carrying two 110 volt circuits to provide one 220 volt circuit. Other 220 volt circuits can include water heaters, air conditioners, spas, welders and shop power tools.
  • Hots, Neutrals and Grounds. Black wires are attached to breakers in the main panel. Sometimes there are two wires (one black, one red) to form a 220 volt circuit as mentioned above. The white wires are attached to a special bar in the panel called a neutral “buss” which is also connected to the neutral wire from the power company. Ground wires are usually bare copper (can be green coated or aluminum) are also attached to the neutral buss in the panel. A ground wire is connected to a “grounded” source such as a galvanized water pipe, rebar embedded in the foundation or footings, or a grounding rod driven into the ground outside (different rules apply throughout the country).
  • Alternating Current. AC is the name given to household current (power flow) and describes the back and forth pulsation of power from hot to ground and back which takes place 60 times a second. I remember as a child when my hometown converted from 40 cycles to 60 cycles. The lights were brighter and no longer had the flicker of the slower pulsations.
  • Do It Yourself. There are some excellent resources available at libraries, building supply stores and online to walk you step-by-step through the wiring of each of the devices I have mentioned above. Be careful to follow the instructions, especially any safety warnings. Here are a couple of online resources: Chiff.com (has lots of links to other electrical sites) and About.com (a discussion forum where you can ask any electrical question).

Fear Not! Do your homework and then do your electrical repairs and additions.

Find Quality Local Electricians


Doug on HelpHive

 
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