Archive for the ‘Landscape Design’ Category

Garden Mistakes: The New Garden

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010
ugly gardenAhhh, mistakes in the garden – we have all made them and the trouble is that sometimes takes a season or two, or even a few years, before we realize what we have done. When you choose the wrong paint for a room it can be fixed pretty quickly but no so in the garden, so here are some hints on how to take the ‘Oops!’ out of your landscape.

I think the number one rule when starting a new garden, or renovating an old one, is to enlist the help of a experienced, recommended landscaper. This can be essential for a great final product.  If your knowledge of gardening is less than pretty advanced you would be doing yourself and your check book a huge favor by working with a  professional gardener to help you in the planning process and to keep you away from making costly mistakes. If you want to do the work yourself then at a minimum pay for a consult and consider a design as well.  With all the considerations that need to be taken when planning a garden you would be best served by utilizing the knowledge of someone who has made all the mistakes already and learned from them what not to do.

If you do go it alone – or plan on doing the plant purchasing and planting on your own - here are some of the DON’Ts to consider.

  1. Don’t fall in love with those gorgeous displays at the nurseries – An avid gardener knows this lust, you see it and must have it! But is it really the right plant for your location? Do you have room for it?  If so, will it enhance the plants already established and play well with the others? All things to consider when that must have feeling hits.  Successful and easy to maintain gardens are well planned and  introducing a impulse buy plant to the group on a whim can sometimes lead to problems later on.  If you just cant help yourself  just buy some nice big containers and use them as mini gardens for those plants you just couldn’t say no to.  (I do this all the time as I cant help myself either…..nurseries to me are like shoe sales are to Carrie Bradshaw.)
  2. Don’t plant too close together – This is what else happens when you go nuts in the nursery. Planting to close together is instant gratification but all the plants will suffer as they reach full size. Read the tags and make yourself aware of the full grown size of the plant and space accordingly – you’ll be so much happier with the results in the long run, so will all you plants.
  3. Don’t buy plants when in full bloom – This also happens when you fall in love with a full blooming flowering plant and sometimes it  just cant be helped - But try to train yourself to look for plants that have new growth, healthy structures and healthy roots rather then a big display of flowers. Some plants actually bloom more when the are in distress – it is their way of trying to make as much seed as possible in case they are getting ready to die! So look for long term health traits instead. If the plant you want is coming into it’s blooming season then try to pick the ones with nice buds so you can enjoy the full flowering season.
  4. Don’t plant in the wrong season – Spring bulbs are planted in the Fall, trees and shrubs are best planted in fall thru winter, and be careful of non-natives that seem complaicent but then explode with growth during the growing season. Most of all dont plant anything in the hot summer months, especially trees and shrubs, unless you plan on not going anywhere that summer and instead plan on staying home and watering every other day for 3 months. Irrigation will not do the right watering for a tree or shrub planted in the summer as they are set for established plantings and the new plants will need more detailed attention to their watering needs.
  5. Don’t take short cuts with site preparation – There is a saying I heard long ago called the 80/20 rule. 80% of your garden budget should be put into soil and bed preparation and the other 20% toward plants.  If you give it a good home it will grow.  Go this route and you can save some money by buying smaller plants that will thrive and mature faster than if you did little or  bad prep and threw in big new plants.

For the next post I will cover the garden mistakes we all tend to make once the garden is in so check in for that!

Find recommended landscape design professionals to help with your garden planning.


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Pruning and topping your trees

Friday, January 29th, 2010

pruning2If you are fortunate enough to have a small forest of trees in your yard you might wonder how you can contain them. Trees can be both a very beautiful part of a landscape and very effective at blocking out much desired sun. How should you go about altering them or simply maintaining them? In most cases what is best for the tree is best for the homeowner. Sometimes the needs of man and nature collide. Here are some basic principals:

  • The best pruning is ongoing, throughout the life of the tree. It is great fun to plant a small tree and live at that location long enough to see it grow into a big one. By selective thinning you can pick which branches to keep and by removing others channel plant energy into remaining ones.
  • Ongoing pruning can control tree size, stimulate healthy flower and fruit growth, and shape the tree into traditional or unique forms.
  • If you are on the early side of landscaping and planning, select tree sizes based upon their mature size. Trees planted too close to a house rarely seem so when planted from a 2 or 5 gallon container.

Pruning Tips

  • Branches 1″ or less are cut with hand or long handles pruning shears with a single cut next to the base of the tree. Remove dead and  unwanted  branches, and some of those that are grouped too close together.
  • Larger branches are cut by hand or chainsaw by first under cutting as much as 1/3 of the branch, about 2″ out from desired cut line. Make a second cut from the top down just outside your first undercut. Then cut from top down at planned location. This helps prevent bark splitting.
  • When branches split or bark is pealed apply tree salve.  Sometimes a wrapping is necessary.

What if I want to top my trees?

  • Tree topping is hard on trees. Tree topping can help bring light into your property, but severe topping weakens trees, making them more vulnerable to insects and disease. Topping is a reasonable choice if you are open to losing the tree if the tree doesn’t react well to the pruning. Some trees do survive and even thrive after a topping but you have to assume the risk of losing the tree.
  • Consider instead how limbing lower dead and insignificant branches can help bring in low angled winter light and general thinning throughout might bring in pinpoints of light.
  • You may benefit from removing some of your trees to bring in light or a betterview of your house from the street. Emotionally it is hard to let go of a full grown tree. Sometimes it opens up a whole new world for your yard and home.

Trees do not look as tall as they really are from the ground. What seems like a simple task in pruning and branch removal can be a colossal chore and may be beyond the scope of work a homeowner can safely do. Consider the advice and services of a recommended tree professional (arborist) for any projects above head height and of any substantial scope.


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Plants for great Fall color

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Fall is a season of glorious color but it can be fleeting sometimes!

Here’s a list  of plants  that are known for having amazing color changes, will last longer than just until the first windstorm, and are  great looking plants in your summer garden as well.

Fall is also one of the best times of the year to plant – you can go to the nursery, purchase and plant, and know what color your getting!  This makes it easy to choose the right fall color plants for your garden.

katsura leavesKATSURA- I have mentioned this plant in a previous post and I put it first in this list – The dry leaves when shuffled thru (or when you are raking them up) smell like cotton candy! The various colors during the change is what I love the most about this tree – as some of it’s leaves are still green, some are fading yellow and others into reds and purples (depending on which species you plant)…all happening at once!


fall and new roof 012FOTHERGILLA (Mt. Airy) -  Mt. Airy is the mid-sized version of this amazing Fall color plant.  It’s considered to be the best one for various changes in the leaves.  There are also dwarf and larger versions that can be used for drama, as a back drop plant or as spots of color. It also has a 3-4″  cone flower in summer.





Fall color for Blog 028RHUS (Sumac) – The Rhus family is large… And here in the Northwest we usually plant the Staghorn or Lace leaf varieties but all Sumac species thrive in almost any soil as long as they are well drained.  The females have the red cone seed pod that birds love.






Fall color for Blog 019STEWARTIA – These trees are happy in organically enriched, slightly acid and woodland gardens so they are a perfect understory tree for a woodsy garden. There are a few different species but all are slow growing, all season performers. They have large white flowers in the spring and beautiful glossy leaves for the Spring and Summer, amazing fall color in the Fall and, depending on the species, smooth bark that flakes off in varying degrees (like a birch) with patterns of different colors.



Fall color for Blog 014BLUEBERRIES- Gorgeous purple fruit high in antioxidants that even kids love to eat plus gorgeous fall color to boot – need I say more?








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LOW-STRESS LANDSCAPING – Less Work, More Enjoyment

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

mikelee-landscape

Your landscape probably uses more of your time and water than it should. Fall is the best time of the year to do something about it. Before you start on a garden makeover, though, do what the advice columnists often urge: get professional help.

Start with a landscape architect or designer who knows Northwest plants and the meaning of ‘low maintenance’. While the best references come from people you know, you can easily find a full selection of designers through sites such as HelpHive. Ask your candidates about their design philosophy and experience with projects such as yours.

While plants are the key to lower maintenance, you will want to take care of your non-plant issues as well. Do these before you even consider planting. You don’t want to tear through your new garden to re-do a drain or expand the patio. This is why we draw plans.

Among the topics your plan should address:

  • Existing problems with drainage or erosion, broken walks, steps, fences.
  • Steep slopes.
  • View control.
  • Circulation.

While creating your easy-going garden, keep these pointers in mind:

  • Think ‘drought-hardy‘. Low water use is key to low maintenance. When you aren’t watering, there is less opportunity for weeds. In the un-watered garden, drought-tolerant plants are crucial. And don’t worry about a desert-like effect. There are thousands of plants of every color and form that flourish here without watering.
  • Re-think grass. Lawn takes a lot of water and work. If you can cut the grass, so to speak, you will eliminate all that mowing, edging, fertilizing while cutting off the biggest water-hog in your household. Grass on steep slopes is silly. Replacing a steep lawn with walls and drought-hardy plantings is one of the best landscape investments you can make.
  • Drop the formality. Crisp hedges and rows of shrubs trimmed into artificial shapes are the ultimate in high-maintenance. Also, most plants don’t automatically need to be trimmed. Getting comfortable with a natural look will cut work and make your garden friendlier.
  • Choose your plants carefully. That cute potted pine tree planted under the eaves will cause you a lot of grief one day. Hacking it back every year is hard on both of you and makes the plant increasingly ugly. Likewise, a shade plant frying in full sun will look pitiful, if it survives at all. Find out what plants need before you choose.
  • Think again. Other landscape features and details are waiting to lure you into a lifetime of toil. Beware of these potential problems:
    • Rockeries can be lovely, but are magnets for grass and weeds , which root deeply between the stones. Block walls are the low-maintenance alternative.
    • Ponds and water features need regular attention. Water is a wonderful element in a garden, so of course you want it. Just keep the water feature small and simple.
    • Low, carpeting groundcovers are usually not deep enough to smother out weeds. Instead , use plants that grow at least a six inches deep.
    • Give yourself-and your neighbors a break from the noise of ‘weed whacking’. If you must have grass, keep it away from walls, rockeries and other un-mowable edges.
    • Fruits and vegetables need plenty of water, so keep them ( and any other water-loving plants you can’t live without), in separate beds from the rest of your garden. Drought-hardy plants may resent water once they are established.

Now to turn that labor-intensive landscape into your low-maintenance paradise!

? Re-think grass. Lawn takes a lot of water and work. If you can cut the grass, so to speak, you will eliminate all that mowing, edging, fertilizing while cutting off the biggest water-hog in your household. Grass on steep slopes is silly. Replacing a steep lawn with walls and drought-hardy plantings is one of the best landscape investments you can make.


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Top 10 Plants…To Stop Planting! (Part 2)

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

Part 2 of my post on the top 10 plants to stop planting in Pacific Northwest gardens.  Although a number of these apply pretty much anywhere!  If you missed my first post, see the first 5 plants on my list to stop planting in Pacific Northwest gardens. And read on for the next 5!

  • grass
  • Grass (as in your lawn) We’ve been hearing this for years and sorry but it’s true – the cost and impact of a lawn are tremendous: water, fertilizer, gas, oil, pollution, lawn mower repairs, blade sharpening, bags for grass cuttings and extra fees if you fill up your yard waste bin – and that’s just what it takes just to have one of those lawns that goes brown during the 3 months of summer when you’re most likely to be out on it!  Time to get creative people!
  • Heuchera- (Coral Bells) The varieties of new Huechera that have been available the last few years are amazing. These are truly beautiful plants, but it’s time to keep them out of garden beds and only use them in containers or as annual color spots. Two reasons: they are really susceptible to cyclamen grub – if you’ve ever tugged on one while pruning off a spent flower only to have it pop out of the ground like it was just sitting on top of the soil – well, that was because all the roots were eaten off by cyclamen grub. Also the newer varieties are fragile and won’t live through most winters.  Don’t pay for perennial plants that die in the winter.
  • Plants pruned into boxes, shapes, and square hedges -This is what they call “Shear Madness”.  Formal hedging should be used only at the entries to court buildings, libraries, college campuses and at DisneyWorld. The time required for proper maintenance is costly, especially if done right and not just chopped at with an electric or gas hedge trimmer.  If you plant the right plant in the right place and give it the proper space you will only  need light seasonal pruning.
  • In the vegetable garden - Zucchini, Corn and Potatoes- These vegetables require a ton of space and water – and are just not worth it unless of course you have a huge vegetable garden with all the space in the world. But for the small backyard gardener (who has wisely ripped out most of the lawn and turned it over to being a small back yard vegetable patch!)  these vegetables are not worth your precious space.  Since they are so cheap to buy use your beds to save you money by planting things that will produce a lot of food in a small space like bush beans, lettuce, spinach, herbs, carrots, beets, radishes,  and cabbages. And don’t forget the vining plants that you can grow vertically in the same beds like tomatoes, pole beans, peas, cucumbers and grapes.
  • bambooBamboo – This amazing plant is just too dangerous to let get loose in your backyard garden.  Even clumping varieties with proper barriers installed can cause problems eventually.  Bamboo can be an excellent addition to the garden but keep it in a pot on a deck or patio so it never gets free.  Or you can insert pots of bamboo into the garden for texture – just be sure to lift the pot a few times a year and cut off any roots trying to sneak out.  Bamboo planted in a pot will live for years and you can divide them every few years in 4ths and double your pots of bamboo in no time – creating that grove you always wanted – just on your patio!

Do you have plants you feel aren’t worth the investment?  I’d love to hear ‘em!  Post a comment and share your thoughts…


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Top 10 Plants…To Stop Planting! (Part 1)

Monday, August 10th, 2009

YES, I am going there… And will be completely honest about the plants I would really love to not see in a Pacific Northwest Garden again.

Two of these plants are actually on my top ten favorite plants of all time! But I’ve had it with their messes, needs, problems and overuse. You want to save some money and some time? Get these plants out of your garden and have a professional landscaper replace them with  low maintenance alternatives!  And if you have gardeners who take care of your plantings for you this will cut down on their time in the garden as well.

  • Ceanothus

    Ceanothus

    Ceanothus (California Wild Lilac)  – boy do I love it’s bloom – but over time the lower limbs die off as this plant gets bigger.  Pruning destroys it’s natural form which is part of it’s beauty.  It also does not like a cold winter and since they are usually used as either hedge material or focal points this can mean a big loss in a cold winter.

  • Evergreen Magnolias - I know – How can I include them!? But these trees shed leaves all the time, their leaves don’t break down easily and if left to pile up, are so heavy and big that they ruin any plantings below.  Magnolias are also another plant that should be pruned very lightly (if ever) and rarely are afforded the right space to grow to maturity without any pruning.  Even you’ve got the space, they will “self prune”.  Inside branches will die off from lack of light as the canopy gets higher. Magnolias are a very soft wood and are prone to damage in even light winds.
  • Phormium (Flax) These plants have become all the rage and they are definitely striking -  years ago they were considered annuals but hardier breeding and temperature changes have allowed many of them to live across many seasons and even bloom.  However, one long cold snap like the winter of 2008 in Seattle and it’s over for these warm weather plants. Plus, if there is steady wind their tips are always brown, bent and damaged.  It
    Phormium

    Phormium

    can take up to an hour to properly clean up a large one.

  • Hybrid Tea Roses- Again, multiple problems here;  bugs, rust, powdery mildew, black spots, rotten buds……and the many dollars and hours spent combating all of these just to get a rose bloom that will be wiped out as soon as it rains.  Unless roses are given perfect siting, (which is frankly an unattractive spacing of plants with no other plants around), soil requirements and maintenance, they always end up with an ailment of some kind.
  • Hebes- This one I will definitely miss. Having said that, I’ll soft pitch this one – go for it and use them again if you don’t mind the probable cost of replacement in a colder than normal winter.  This last winter of 2008 was cold enough to wipe out many of the various kinds of Hebe with some of the most desirable being the most easily lost to a frigid death.  These plants have become very popular with good reason the last few years so consultation with a nursery person or landscaper on which ones can still be used with some confidence might be a wise move.

Check back on Wednesday for the next five on my list!

Phormium (Flax) These plants have become all the rage and they are striking -  years ago they were considered annuals but hardier breeding and temperature changes have allowed many of them to live acreoss many seasons and even bloom.  However, one long cold snap like the winter of 2008 in Seattle and it’s over for these warm weather plants. Plus if there is steady wind their tips are always brown, bent and damaged.  It can up to an hour toproperly clean up a large one.

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Creating Paths and Patios with Pavers

Friday, July 24th, 2009

pavers1Beautiful and usable yards are a blend of hardscapes and planted areas, of places to be and places to see. Defining areas is a process of creating outdoor rooms without walls and sometimes with borders that are intentionally fuzzy. Pavers can provide both natural looking patio areas and softer looking paths through a number of design options. Pavers are easier to conform to irregular terrain changes. They aren’t a choice you make to save money over a poured concrete slab, but rather for different looks and options possible.  Pavers are more eco-friendly as they allow rainwater to soak in rather than contribute to runoff.  Pavers also allow for later changes, redesigns, and access should you need to run a plumbing or electrical line.  So, what should you look for in a quality project?

  • First consider overall yard drainage and contours. You may need to change or improve paths for runoff of excess rain. You might want  to consider any needs for French drains. Are there any other changes in terrain that would be more aesthetically pleasing? If you are creating a paver patio you’ll want to end up with an area as flat as possible and in a way that integrates with the rest of the yard.
  • Excavation. Pavers involve sand over a base, so you will need to remove a lot of dirt. Recently a client of mine was able to have her huge 12 yard pile picked up for free through Craig’s List. Care needs to be taken to assure that the level of the dirt is a fairly consistent (plus or minus 1/4″ is standard, high or low by 1/2″ is still okay) plane that parallels your desired finish plane.
  • Base. You will want to install a 3″ base which should be compacted with a plate compacter. If you have very solid stable soil, 2 1/2″ will be fine. Less solid and stable can easily use 4 to 5″.  If your ground is wet from a spring or high water table you might need to invest in a geotech fabric designed to create buildable soils over near swamps. If you want to drive on your pavers you will want to add an additional 3 to 6″ to what you would otherwise need.
  • Sand. The sand layer is typically 1 1/2″. A lot of “paver sand” contains a lot of pebbles in the 1/8″, 3/16″ or even the occasional 1/4″ dimension. This makes placing pavers more difficult. As such, you may want to add a thin layer of fine, perhaps “playground” sand. You will also want fine sand to fill cracks between pavers after placement.
  • Pavers. The least expensive pavers are the 12″ x 12″ or 8″ x 16″, 1 1/2″ thick, concrete paver in grey or “red” (pink).  These can look great.  If you’re willing to spend more, you can get textured pavers that look almost stonelike, with a variety of colors, and ranging from rough to quite smooth on the feet. Smaller pavers can be placed more quickly. Larger pavers may need adjustment including pulling them up and adding sand. There will always be some edges or corners that are above or below the average plane of pavers. You may want to go over the pavers (gap fill-in sand in place) with a plate compacter to settle pavers into a nice plane. This will not crack your pavers :>}.
  • Patterns. Similar to creating patterns for tile, you can offset joint lines, or create a random looking  pattern that repeats every couple feet incorporating more than one paver size.
  • Joint size. Some opt for a tight, almost no joint design. One problem to be aware of is when an occasional joint is big in a no gap system it stands out more. The usual minimum gap is 1/8″ which allows fine sand to settle into cracks and makes for a more solid paver and it naturally hides larger joints that occur. Two reasons to use a larger joint is because you like the look with the pavers you have choosen, or in some cases to allow fill-in plants to grow in the gaps. On one project we used a 1″ gap pattern on pavers between a lawn and driveway and put sod in the gaps. This allowed the extra width we were trying to create for the driveway and a green look that blended with the yard.
  • Cutting pavers. Pavers are cut by a wet saw using a diamond blade. Cuts require a steady hand and the safety practices of a professional. Some homeowners can do this, but care should be taken in accurately assessing your ability.

Depending on the size of your project, the hardness of your soil, and the size of your pavers, this type of project can be quite large. You may want to hire a professional – find a Tile and Stone Professional or find a Concrete and Paving Professional to help.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive

 
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Going Native – Top Native Plants for Your Pacific Northwest Garden

Saturday, July 11th, 2009
Woodland Ferns

Native plantings are the best of all worlds. Beautiful, extremely low maintenance, economical, water efficient and with benefits for the environment!
Native plants, once established, require little help to thrive IF properly planned. They will attract native species of bird and butterfly, handle the native weather (like our varying situation here in the Pacific Northwest – drenching rains to a few months of drought ) and require much less prep work since they don’t need fluffy beds of worked soil to do well.

Figuring out which plants are truly native and finding an ethically harvested source for these plants can be daunting for the first time gardener or the busy homeowner.  If you’re not familiar with natives – don’t fret!  Many local landscapers and gardeners have a staff member with expertise in native plantings who can help guide you through the process, from full-service design and installation to a simple consultation for the do-it- yourself gardener.

For the Pacific Northwest garden, here is a quick list of of  native plants for each layer of the garden that are sure to please!

Acer Circinatum

Columbian lily

  • TREES: Acer Circinatum ( Vine Maple) Cornus nuttallii (Pacific Dogwood) Tsuga mertensiana (Mountain Hemlock)
  • SHRUBS: Cornus stolonifera(Redtwig Dogwood) Gaultheria shallon(Salal) Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape) Ribes sanguineum(Pink Winter Currant) Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry)
  • GROUND COVERS: Cornus canadensis(Bunchberry) Fragaria chiloensis (Beach Strawberry) Asarum caudatum (Wild Ginger) Maianthemum dilatatum (False Lily-of-the-Valley)
  • PERENNIALS, FERNS and GRASSES: Aquilegia formosa (Western Columbine) Blechnum spicant (Deer Fern) Dodecatheon (Shooting Star) Fritillaria camschatcensis (Black Lily) Iris, Pacific Coast (Pacific Coast Iris) Lilium columbianum(Columbian Lily)Smilacina racemosa (False Solomon’s Seal) Trillium ovatum (Wake Robin)

Your yard may offer enough diversity in growing conditions to open up the palette of natives you can plant: A hot dry rockery or well drained slope will be the perfect environment for some, while a low damp spot or shady area is perfect for others.

woodland_gdn_1Native plants will thrive with a good start and good care as they establish. Here are a few tips to get you going:

  • When purchasing container grown plants choose young plants that are not root bound in the pot – a young plant will adapt much more successfully than a large plant or one that is already root bound.
  • Water immediately after planting being sure to saturate the soil – this eases the stress of planting and helps to settle the soil around the root ball, ensuring there are no large air pockets under the plant.
  • Water evenly and steadily the first two summers- don’t inundate them with water, but don’t let them dry out.  During the first two years your natives will be doing mostly root work, growing wide for stability before putting on height and  growing deep to search for water.
  • After two years, assuming they have been planted where the natural conditions suit them, native plants usually don’t need any supplemental watering in the summer.
  • In general native plants need no fertilizer – and in some cases applying fertilizer may cause unnatural bursts of growth resulting in weak, poorly matured plants.
  • Mulching is good, BUT make sure the mulch is not piled up around the base of the plant – burying the crown of the root ball under too much mulch can result in crown rot.

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The Top 5 Vegetables for Container Gardening

Friday, June 26th, 2009

These days who isn’t thinking of eating Locally and Organically?  One of the best ways possible to do this is to grow a few vegetables yourself in what’s called a “Container Garden”.

Newly planted pots with feet and irrigation.

Newly planted pots with feet and irrigation.

Container gardening is simply the easiest, cheapest, safest and best way to ensure an actual crop of vegetables you can add to your menu – the satisfaction of a homegrown salad a few times a week  is well worth it. Many Seattle based garden and landscape companies do container planting. They have crews who specialize in the sometimes difficult task of getting heavy pots and the soil to special situation areas, such as terraces and balconies of condos or apartments.

Getting Started: When choosing a place to site your container garden, consider these factors first. Where will the plants get the most hours of full sunlight?  Is there a source of water that is close at hand and easy to use?  And what kind of vegetables do you want to grow?

Installing Pots: For large and deep rooted plants like tomatoes, pole beans or snap peas you want larger deep pots that can take the weight of the plants as they get large and grow up the stakes these climbing and “vining” types of vegetables need.  A big tomato plant can weigh far more than the pot and it’s soil when it is fruiting, so be sure to use big pots for the big plants. Shallow rooted plants, like lettuce, spinach and radish which don’t need full sun all day, can be tucked amongst the bigger pots so the bigger plants will provide the desired dappled light in the middle of summer.  Any type of container will do from a 5 gallon bucket to a beautiful piece of  pottery, but be SURE that there are plenty of drainage holes on the bottom of the pot.  Putting the pot up on “feet” is really best for good drainage and is very helpful for keeping the area cleaner (you can hose under the pots).  Pot feet can be purchased or can be made from anything that will keep the pot a few inches off the ground and stable, such as bricks, flagstone pieces, or blocks of wood.tomato-plants

Soil and fertilizers: You can grow Organic vegetables by making sure a) your container has been fully cleaned and not used for any kind of hazardous material (especially important if it is plastic), b) that you purchase organic potting soil for your containers.  Potting soil is recommended for container planting as the native soil from your yard is usually too heavy for the fast root work annual vegetables need to do in a very short time. Fertilizing throughout the growing season is great for getting a bumper crop but an organic fertilizer must be used. There are many to choose from on the market today and following the directions carefully is key to success. For a purely organic harvest purchase organic seeds to start with.

Top 5 Vegetable Plants (for the Pacific Northwest) Here in the Pacific Northwest we battle cool temperatures and wet environments – many of the  vegetables we would like to grow aren’t fond of this!  However, heat loving plants, like tomato, basil and peppers, can  be grown with great success if the guidelines for soil amounts and sunlight needs are satisfied (and proper watering of course). The top five plants listed here are vegetables we can grow easily here in our cooler, wetter climate.

  1. Lettuce (and all kinds of salad greens) – Our cool weather is perfect for lettuces and they last a lot longer before bolting (going to seed) than they do in many parts of the country.  There are many beautiful and amazing lettuces on the market these days – seeds for Heirloom varieties are easily found at garden stores and nurseries and they are very easy to grow. Lettuce can be grown almost all year round in the Pacific Northwest.
  2. Spinach (also Kale and Kohlrabi) – Since it requires the same weather as lettuce, spinach does fabulously here – right up until it gets over 75 degrees and it sets seed. Fortunately with our long cool springs you can stagger plant both spinach and lettuce (set new seeds every two weeks for April-June and then again in August for a fall crop) and won’t be out of salad greens for months!
  3. Sugar snap peas – The sugar snap pea is the variety you eat “shell and all” and are a staple in most stir-frys. These cool weather plants need a big container and a set up of stakes to climb on as they reach about 4-5 feet as they start to produce pea pods. They are best to eat when still young and the peas inside are just forming.
  4. Broccoli and Cabbage – Also cooler loving weather plants, Broccoli and Cabbage are planted later in the summer, so they will be ready for harvest as the weather cools down in the fall – the warmth of the summer is when they germinate and grow, and the start of the cooler weather makes them “flower”.
  5. Herbs- herbs are the spice of life, and fresh ones can take your dinner to that next level. Pesto lovers of the Pacific Northwest know that you can get a basil to grow in a pot just about anywhere it will get a day’s full of sun and heat.  But, if you are sun challenged then find and plant the varieties that will be okay with some shade.  Herbs are generally sun loving plants, however, chive, oregano, parsley, cilantro and leeks will do fine with some shade during the day.

Special Tip: Drip line irrigation (which can ensure you don’t forget a watering!) installation should be done before any soil is put into the containers.


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Creating Beautiful Home Landscapes

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

Tiny White CottageLandscaping done well makes your home inviting. It draws attention and shows people that you care. What do you do if you think you lack a green thumb? Break the work of landscaping into its components: Design from execution,  front yard from back yard, and  developing  just one spot from overall goals. Write out all your dreams and ideas for your outdoor spaces and begin to prioritize. Beautiful design ideas must be  balanced to fit your use and the overall context of your home naturally. With a little planning and just getting started you will be amazed at what a difference you can make.

What would this look like?

Let’s say you just moved into a home in which the front landscaping is overgrown and looks uncared for. You’d like to create a nice backyard space, but the front is too bad to not make it the priority. Here are some ideas to get you started:

  • Look at the overall architecture of the front of your house. What lines are its best assets? Some houses have an unattractive addition that could benefit from a hedge or larger bushes. Most benefit from landscaping that is kept trimmed, not planted directly against the house and in proportion with the house.
  • How is the front door or front porch framed. As with a picture, the frame shouldn’t get in the way of the art. Landscaping is its own art, but it shouldn’t compete with your entrance.
  • What does the entrance path to your front door look like? Is it something you can accent? Do you need to create one with stones or pavers set into the lawn?

When you have an idea of your planting spots and border areas, it’s time to figure out what to plant. What direction does your front face? Notice what areas get sun and what times of the day. Familiarize yourself with plant choices you like. Look around your own and other neighborhoods. Notice where these are planted. Visit your local nursury. To get started on your design, here is what to consider:

  • A well planted and maintained landscape will use contrast and compliment to make a statement. What can you use in your yard and what should be taken out? Then plan your new plantings.
  • Note these elements of plants you are considering:  Plant size, both height and width, and overall presence such as bushy or thinly foliaged; leaf size, shape, and color; does it lose leaves in winter or keep them; is it flowering or not; is it invasive and spreading or easy to control; how fast does it grow; does it grow best in shade, partial shade, light sun, or full sun; and does it match the climate in which you live in terms of tolerance of freezing, high heat, highly wet or drought conditions.
  • In your design, plan your anchor plants and small plant or flower beds. Placement of larger anchor plants or trees should be decided on their size and look five years down the road or longer. You can use something that will eventually get too big and need to be removed if that time is a decade away, but consider locations that will work longer term. In small plant and flower bed areas you may want small flowering bushes or plants that are perennials, that come back every year. Alternatively the flowers on annuals last as long as five months. Annuals do not come back the following year but give your beds a lot of pop while you have them.
  • As you consider the plant characteristics mentioned above you will alternatively want to both contrast elements and align them. Differing heights, leaf shape, leaf color, and flower color can create a beautiful mosaic, with nuances of texture and shade. Making good decisions as to when to group similar things together is just as important. While differing heights are important you usually want similar sizes together rather than a high-low-high-low pattern. Some plants will not even show up unless they are grouped with the same or similar plant. A dark unusually textured plant might get lost in a random pattern of plants, but create a focal point when paired up. Random variation of colors in flowers can look good, but might look even better when put in a group. The colors certainly make a bolder statement when grouped.
  • If you are hiring a landscaper or gardener to help you, it might be worth it for you to pay them for some design time. An extra hour or two at their installation rates is a good deal for you and they shouldn’t give that time away for free :>}.

Landscape installation: Whether you use a professional or not, you will want to know some landscaping/gardening basics:

Soil:

  • Healthy soil needs to be acheived and maintained. To understand good soil characteristics consider that roots need nutrients, air, water, and room to expand. Soil consists of four basic parts in various ratios: Sand, silt, clay, and humus. The first three are actually rock particles of three size ranges. For trivia buffs,  the Sunset Western Garden Book says, sand ranges from 1/500 to 1/12 inch, silt from 1/12,000 to 1/500th, and clay is smaller than 1/12,000. You needed to know that! Humus is organic material, as in decaying plant matter, and should be distinguished from Hummus, the delicious meal from chick peas. Clay helps provide minerals and helps the plant connect with other nutrients. Too much clay, and your soil doesn’t drain well, depriving your roots of oxygen. Sand helps with drainage, but too much and you lose nutrients and water. Humus provides nutrients but almost more importantly humus is the great universal fixer of most all soil problems. Soils at the extremes of the sand to clay continuum may need the missing component. Most soils will just need humus. You can also send your soil to a lab for testing: http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/.

Planting:

  • Even after you have rototilled your planting area and tilled in nitrogen-added-sawdust, compost, or other organic material, the best planting methods have you digging a large, deep hole at the individual plant location. Mix even more organic material here. This gets good stuff deeper than your overall soil improvement campaign. “Large and deep” is relative to the current and future size of your plant.
  • Check again how much room your plant needs to make sure your design acommodates them. You can crowd a little bit for a fuller look.
  • Take plant out of container by pulling or cutting it off. Untangle bound roots. I usually break the root wad into four quadrants balancing how delicate the particular roots are with the desire to set them free. Longer strands of roots can be draped in the hole and your good soil partially filled in before placing the rest of the plant in place and filling in around it. Read particular planting instructions, but generally plant high, press the soil down around outside of plant, add more soil, and then place hands over top of soil near plant and press down firmly. With all soil pressed down, water generously to settle soil.
  • Keep the area well watered for several days. It is better to hold off on fertilizer for a few weeks to let plants get established.

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