Archive for the ‘Landscape Design’ Category

Universal Plant Health Care

You get regular check ups and take your pets to the vet – and if you are a homeowner there is one more living thing you are responsible for that needs regular check ups as well and that is your yard and garden.  Having a  healthy, easily managed, pest free and environmentally friendly garden starts with having a health care plan for you garden.

The concept of Plant Health Care (PHC) stems from the environmentally sensitive approach to pest control in the garden called Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM practices are more holistic than the name implies and include all aspects of the garden’s health, not just how to kill the bugs the most environmentally friendly way.  PHC is the first step to successful IPM techniques being utilized in your own garden.   Plant health care is a change in both attitude and technique in garden maintenance  and has been being utilized by professional landscape companies that practice organic only gardening techniques for years.  (And as my company is one of them, I can speak from 15 years experience that these techniques do work.)ladybug on flower

Turns out bugs are not your worst enemy in the garden. Many folks see things going wrong with a plant in the garden and think bugs first, however most of the time this is not the case. For example, at the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory at WSU in Puyallup half the plants submitted for diagnosis were not affected by insect pests or disease organisms but rather were sick due to cultural and environmental factors such as drought stress, winter damage and over watering.

Plant Health Care (PHC) “sees proper culture as the foundation of healthy landscapes and emphasizes working with nature rather than fighting it with a ‘Learn Your Ecosystem’ approach.”

  • Identify plants. The first step in implementing a PHC system for your yard is to identify and list all of the plants in your yard. Once you know what plants are in your yard and garden  you will then be able to research them for their cultural needs, most common pest problems and common environmental problems. While researching you may discover that you have some of the key plants that are the most problem prone and require the most attention.  If this task sounds too daunting then contact a quality local landscape company and ask for a consultation for plant identification.
  • Key problems. Once you know what kind of plants you have you can then identify key problems both biotic (insects, fungi, slugs, deer etc.) and abiotic (non-living factors such as weather, irrigation, soil fertility). Key problems are the first things to look for as they are the most likely to be impacting a plants health. ( for example; rhododendrons usually suffer from either root weevils or poor drainage. )
  • Study landscapes ecosystem. Become aware of climatic factors such as minimum temperatures, prevailing winds, seasonal patterns of precipitation and the amount of sun received in different areas of the garden. Knowing the wet spots, hot spots, dry spots etc. will enable you to match the right plants to the different habitats in your yard. Also understand what kind of soils you have in different areas and how they drain – there may be clay in one sunny area and sand in another where it is shady and these very different cultures may be only a back yard apart from each other.  This can make a huge difference in what plants will thrive in these very different locations.
  • Monitor. A large part of PHC is to monitor your garden on a regular basis (or hire a professional landscape service that understand PHC to do maintenance for you.) Monitoring at least every two weeks during the growing season of Spring - Summer and at least once a month during the Fall - Winter is essential. When out in the garden check for signs of plant distress (wilting leaves, yellowing leaves, die back) and be on the look out for developing pest problems (aphids, chew holes on leaves). Concentrate your monitoring on the key plants that get the key problems to start and you will develop your eye for problems over time as you observe for many seasons.

Once you know what you have and know what is going on with your ecosystems you will  have the knowledge to optimize your plants health.

This begins with smart planting in the first place. If you have found you have a lot of problem plants then the best thing to do in the long run may be to replace them with plants properly suited to the conditions and climate you have to work with. This will also give you an opportunity to create more diversity in the garden, which naturally limits infestations. The addition of Native plants is an excellent choice to create the right diversity in your yard for a sustainable ecosystem.

Once these changes have been made and you have the “right plant in the right place” then you must employ good cultural practices to ensure future health: Improve you soil with mulch and organic matter, pay careful attention to watering and, very importantly, prune only in the correct season for the individual plant.

Once cultural and environmental problems have been minimized then many garden problems are naturally avoided – think of it as preventative medicine! Healthy plants are naturally able to withstand insect and disease damage and small infestations will work them selves out in a healthy ecosystem.  If problems do arise then an IPM approach can then be used with great success.


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Where Did All This Water Come From? Addressing Drainage

standing waterWater has a close association with life itself. Lush verdant environments thrive on it. Too much water can cause problems too. Before we picture homes  sliding down hillsides we picture mold and fungus showing up on lower siding and trim. Many plants languish in saturated soil without air to their roots. You may want to contact a local recommended landscape professional for help with your yard. Let’s look at some drainage basics:

Soil Level. Soil around your house perimeter must always be lower. Code minimum is 6″ to siding. Even if soil level is even with your siding it is highly recommended to maintain a lowered border area even if this means sloping out to a low point six feet out from your house. Even if you can’t deal with all the water in your yard, this border is a priority. Never let landscape bark and leaves accumulate against your house.

Key Questions. To develop a general plan for overall yard drainage ask these questions:

  • Where are the potential low places to which you can send water away from your house and yard?
  • If this is into your neighbors yard (instead of the street) is this the natural slope as in a series of houses on a hill (as in normal or unavoidable) or would you be doing your neighbor wrong?
  • Where are the sources of water, such as roof runoff, all or part of yard sloping toward house, neighbors yard draining into yours?
  • Do the problems of either source or where to put water indicate a joint project with a neighbor?

Standing Water. Water standing or saturating an area that is away from homes may be okay if drainage is not possible. Plant life will be affected of course, but such an area might be the only solution if you have no access to a lower point.

Dealing with a Low Point. If you do have a low point, the first plan is to contour yard soil so as to drain your yard toward that point. You may have to drain first in what seems like the wrong direction to a low area which is slowly drained by a very gradual low swale which eventually reaches the target point.

French Drains (See my previous article explaining French Drains). One application can be to facilitate good evacuation of water in a very low sloped swale. Even if your collecting swale is flat, you may have succeeded in draining your overall yard. A french drain in a flat swale that leads to a place that can take the water will still work (even if flat!). The other consideration for a french drain is against the house to gather water that gets there in spite of your other efforts. In any case french drains function as a secondary consideration after use of grading.

Plant life.  Plant roots need oxygen to survive. You can landscape in raised beds as a way to create sufficient drainage for root systems, but make sure you are not creating a dam in the process. Similarly merely filling in a low spot in your yard without an overall drainage plan usually doesn’t help much. Plant drainage  can be created for individual plants to some degree if they aren’t located in saturated soil. When planting my rhododendrons, for instance, I dug holes three feet deep and about that wide. I filled the hole with high quality garden soil plus extra humus (digested plant matter) and a little sand. So far my Rhodies are happy.

Downspouts.  Making sure the water coming down your downspouts from your roof makes it to a place that will take it away is important. Some homes have downspouts already piped into the public sewer system.

Special Note: Unfortunately most municipalities send sewer water and all runoff water to the same place tremendously overburdening public sewage treatment systems. There is likely little you can do to participate in a more sustainable model. Perhaps in the future drainage systems will let runoff water bypass the treatment plant (lawn chemicals are not being treated anyhow), while the treatment plant only receives sewage.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive


 
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Garden Mistakes: The Established Garden

an established garden

So if you followed the “rules” for putting in a new garden then you want to make sure your investment will thrive and give you that beautiful garden you worked so hard to get. The work is not over once the garden has established itself but it’s certainly less than when it was growing. It takes many years for a garden to establish itself so don’t mess it up along the way with these 5 garden mistakes we’ve all made!

Here’s a list of practices to avoid in caring for an established garden:

1. Don’t let a few weeds become a million weeds – Weeds seed and grow and seed and grow and we all know this happens as soon as your back is turned! A new planting would have been cleaned out of all weeds, but if you let them come back, or have problems with them in the established garden, the best way to control them is to get the yard fully weeded out, have proper mulching done, and then don’t let them get ahead of you again.

Weeds will flower and seed all year long and the best time to get some control is Fall or Spring when the majority of them are setting seeds. Once they  have been wiped out  then start doing a regular tour of the garden and pulling any weeds as soon as you see them come up…..and for sure before they flower and seed. This also promotes an excellent habit of checking out the garden often so you will notice problems sooner and can deal with issues right away that might lead to long term problems.

2. Don’t overuse chemicals to control weeds or pests  – Make that DON’T use chemicals on your living garden - If I had my way they would all be banned from use anyway so do your back yard, your kids bare feet, your animals that lick their paws and the planet in general a big favor and ban them from your garden too.  Lots of information on Organic practices can be found and many landscapers have turned to organic only practices with great success. You can have a beautiful, healthy, and successful garden using nothing but your muscles, some compost and some mulch.

3. Don’t over fertilize - Fertilizer does not feed plants -  it feeds the soil which then feeds the plants. We think we are giving them a “meal” but it really does not work that way. If you have healthy soil you can actually kill your plants by adding too much fertilizer and most plants once established in beds that have been properly mulched don’t need any extra fertilizer at all.  Native plants will not thrive if  fertilizer is used so keep it away from them for sure.  If you do need some for your lawn or container plantings use only organic products and BE SURE to follow the directions for amounts.

4. Improper pruning – I have posted some other articles about pruning when and how’s so check them out for more information but most of all don’t prune your plants in the wrong season and don’t top trees!!  Pruning in the wrong season or doing it wrong can cause a myriad of problems that sometimes can’t be fixed.  So if  your not sure consult a recommended landscaper to help get you on the right track. Pruning wrong is maybe the number one mistake I see people make and something that is almost impossible for a plant to bounce back from.

5. Don’t overwater in the Summer - The established garden needs a lot less water than a new one, that much is obvious, but how much can be a riddle for some.  Established gardens can actually thrive better by having some, but not too much, supplemental water given to them in the hot months. Making the plants work for their water encourages them to grow deeper roots as they search for ground water. This makes them stronger and less susceptible to being damaged in the harsh weather of other seasons. This is especially true for trees and shrubs.  Having you irrigation set to the age of your garden is something people forget to do a few years after a new garden has been put in so have that done if you have an automatic irrigation system. Monitor your garden for what the just right amount is for your landscape thus saving precious water, money and benefiting your landscape to boot.


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Garden Mistakes: The New Garden

ugly gardenAhhh, mistakes in the garden – we have all made them and the trouble is that sometimes takes a season or two, or even a few years, before we realize what we have done. When you choose the wrong paint for a room it can be fixed pretty quickly but no so in the garden, so here are some hints on how to take the ‘Oops!’ out of your landscape.

I think the number one rule when starting a new garden, or renovating an old one, is to enlist the help of a experienced, recommended landscaper. This can be essential for a great final product.  If your knowledge of gardening is less than pretty advanced you would be doing yourself and your check book a huge favor by working with a  professional gardener to help you in the planning process and to keep you away from making costly mistakes. If you want to do the work yourself then at a minimum pay for a consult and consider a design as well.  With all the considerations that need to be taken when planning a garden you would be best served by utilizing the knowledge of someone who has made all the mistakes already and learned from them what not to do.

If you do go it alone – or plan on doing the plant purchasing and planting on your own - here are some of the DON’Ts to consider.

  1. Don’t fall in love with those gorgeous displays at the nurseries – An avid gardener knows this lust, you see it and must have it! But is it really the right plant for your location? Do you have room for it?  If so, will it enhance the plants already established and play well with the others? All things to consider when that must have feeling hits.  Successful and easy to maintain gardens are well planned and  introducing a impulse buy plant to the group on a whim can sometimes lead to problems later on.  If you just cant help yourself  just buy some nice big containers and use them as mini gardens for those plants you just couldn’t say no to.  (I do this all the time as I cant help myself either…..nurseries to me are like shoe sales are to Carrie Bradshaw.)
  2. Don’t plant too close together – This is what else happens when you go nuts in the nursery. Planting to close together is instant gratification but all the plants will suffer as they reach full size. Read the tags and make yourself aware of the full grown size of the plant and space accordingly – you’ll be so much happier with the results in the long run, so will all you plants.
  3. Don’t buy plants when in full bloom – This also happens when you fall in love with a full blooming flowering plant and sometimes it  just cant be helped - But try to train yourself to look for plants that have new growth, healthy structures and healthy roots rather then a big display of flowers. Some plants actually bloom more when the are in distress – it is their way of trying to make as much seed as possible in case they are getting ready to die! So look for long term health traits instead. If the plant you want is coming into it’s blooming season then try to pick the ones with nice buds so you can enjoy the full flowering season.
  4. Don’t plant in the wrong season – Spring bulbs are planted in the Fall, trees and shrubs are best planted in fall thru winter, and be careful of non-natives that seem complaicent but then explode with growth during the growing season. Most of all dont plant anything in the hot summer months, especially trees and shrubs, unless you plan on not going anywhere that summer and instead plan on staying home and watering every other day for 3 months. Irrigation will not do the right watering for a tree or shrub planted in the summer as they are set for established plantings and the new plants will need more detailed attention to their watering needs.
  5. Don’t take short cuts with site preparation – There is a saying I heard long ago called the 80/20 rule. 80% of your garden budget should be put into soil and bed preparation and the other 20% toward plants.  If you give it a good home it will grow.  Go this route and you can save some money by buying smaller plants that will thrive and mature faster than if you did little or  bad prep and threw in big new plants.

For the next post I will cover the garden mistakes we all tend to make once the garden is in so check in for that!

Find recommended landscape design professionals to help with your garden planning.

Also See: Common mistakes with an existing garden


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Pruning and topping your trees

pruning2If you are fortunate enough to have a small forest of trees in your yard you might wonder how you can contain them. Trees can be both a very beautiful part of a landscape and very effective at blocking out much desired sun. How should you go about altering them or simply maintaining them? In most cases what is best for the tree is best for the homeowner. Sometimes the needs of man and nature collide. Here are some basic principals:

  • The best pruning is ongoing, throughout the life of the tree. It is great fun to plant a small tree and live at that location long enough to see it grow into a big one. By selective thinning you can pick which branches to keep and by removing others channel plant energy into remaining ones.
  • Ongoing pruning can control tree size, stimulate healthy flower and fruit growth, and shape the tree into traditional or unique forms.
  • If you are on the early side of landscaping and planning, select tree sizes based upon their mature size. Trees planted too close to a house rarely seem so when planted from a 2 or 5 gallon container.

Pruning Tips

  • Branches 1″ or less are cut with hand or long handles pruning shears with a single cut next to the base of the tree. Remove dead and  unwanted  branches, and some of those that are grouped too close together.
  • Larger branches are cut by hand or chainsaw by first under cutting as much as 1/3 of the branch, about 2″ out from desired cut line. Make a second cut from the top down just outside your first undercut. Then cut from top down at planned location. This helps prevent bark splitting.
  • When branches split or bark is pealed apply tree salve.  Sometimes a wrapping is necessary.

What if I want to top my trees?

  • Tree topping is hard on trees. Tree topping can help bring light into your property, but severe topping weakens trees, making them more vulnerable to insects and disease. Topping is a reasonable choice if you are open to losing the tree if the tree doesn’t react well to the pruning. Some trees do survive and even thrive after a topping but you have to assume the risk of losing the tree.
  • Consider instead how limbing lower dead and insignificant branches can help bring in low angled winter light and general thinning throughout might bring in pinpoints of light.
  • You may benefit from removing some of your trees to bring in light or a betterview of your house from the street. Emotionally it is hard to let go of a full grown tree. Sometimes it opens up a whole new world for your yard and home.

Trees do not look as tall as they really are from the ground. What seems like a simple task in pruning and branch removal can be a colossal chore and may be beyond the scope of work a homeowner can safely do. Consider the advice and services of a recommended tree professional (arborist) for any projects above head height and of any substantial scope.


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Plants for great Fall color

Fall is a season of glorious color but it can be fleeting sometimes!

Here’s a list  of plants  that are known for having amazing color changes, will last longer than just until the first windstorm, and are  great looking plants in your summer garden as well.

Fall is also one of the best times of the year to plant – you can go to the nursery, purchase and plant, and know what color your getting!  This makes it easy to choose the right fall color plants for your garden.

katsura leavesKATSURA- I have mentioned this plant in a previous post and I put it first in this list – The dry leaves when shuffled thru (or when you are raking them up) smell like cotton candy! The various colors during the change is what I love the most about this tree – as some of it’s leaves are still green, some are fading yellow and others into reds and purples (depending on which species you plant)…all happening at once!

fall and new roof 012FOTHERGILLA (Mt. Airy) -  Mt. Airy is the mid-sized version of this amazing Fall color plant.  It’s considered to be the best one for various changes in the leaves.  There are also dwarf and larger versions that can be used for drama, as a back drop plant or as spots of color. It also has a 3-4″  cone flower in summer.

Fall color for Blog 028RHUS (Sumac) – The Rhus family is large… And here in the Northwest we usually plant the Staghorn or Lace leaf varieties but all Sumac species thrive in almost any soil as long as they are well drained.  The females have the red cone seed pod that birds love.

Fall color for Blog 019STEWARTIA – These trees are happy in organically enriched, slightly acid and woodland gardens so they are a perfect understory tree for a woodsy garden. There are a few different species but all are slow growing, all season performers. They have large white flowers in the spring and beautiful glossy leaves for the Spring and Summer, amazing fall color in the Fall and, depending on the species, smooth bark that flakes off in varying degrees (like a birch) with patterns of different colors.

Fall color for Blog 014BLUEBERRIES- Gorgeous purple fruit high in antioxidants that even kids love to eat plus gorgeous fall color to boot – need I say more?


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LOW-STRESS LANDSCAPING – Less Work, More Enjoyment

mikelee-landscape

Your landscape probably uses more of your time and water than it should. Fall is the best time of the year to do something about it. Before you start on a garden makeover, though, do what the advice columnists often urge: get professional help.

Start with a landscape architect or designer who knows Northwest plants and the meaning of ‘low maintenance’. While the best references come from people you know, you can easily find a full selection of designers through sites such as HelpHive. Ask your candidates about their design philosophy and experience with projects such as yours.

While plants are the key to lower maintenance, you will want to take care of your non-plant issues as well. Do these before you even consider planting. You don’t want to tear through your new garden to re-do a drain or expand the patio. This is why we draw plans.

Among the topics your plan should address:

  • Existing problems with drainage or erosion, broken walks, steps, fences.
  • Steep slopes.
  • View control.
  • Circulation.

While creating your easy-going garden, keep these pointers in mind:

  • Think ‘drought-hardy‘. Low water use is key to low maintenance. When you aren’t watering, there is less opportunity for weeds. In the un-watered garden, drought-tolerant plants are crucial. And don’t worry about a desert-like effect. There are thousands of plants of every color and form that flourish here without watering.
  • Re-think grass. Lawn takes a lot of water and work. If you can cut the grass, so to speak, you will eliminate all that mowing, edging, fertilizing while cutting off the biggest water-hog in your household. Grass on steep slopes is silly. Replacing a steep lawn with walls and drought-hardy plantings is one of the best landscape investments you can make.
  • Drop the formality. Crisp hedges and rows of shrubs trimmed into artificial shapes are the ultimate in high-maintenance. Also, most plants don’t automatically need to be trimmed. Getting comfortable with a natural look will cut work and make your garden friendlier.
  • Choose your plants carefully. That cute potted pine tree planted under the eaves will cause you a lot of grief one day. Hacking it back every year is hard on both of you and makes the plant increasingly ugly. Likewise, a shade plant frying in full sun will look pitiful, if it survives at all. Find out what plants need before you choose.
  • Think again. Other landscape features and details are waiting to lure you into a lifetime of toil. Beware of these potential problems:
    • Rockeries can be lovely, but are magnets for grass and weeds , which root deeply between the stones. Block walls are the low-maintenance alternative.
    • Ponds and water features need regular attention. Water is a wonderful element in a garden, so of course you want it. Just keep the water feature small and simple.
    • Low, carpeting groundcovers are usually not deep enough to smother out weeds. Instead , use plants that grow at least a six inches deep.
    • Give yourself-and your neighbors a break from the noise of ‘weed whacking’. If you must have grass, keep it away from walls, rockeries and other un-mowable edges.
    • Fruits and vegetables need plenty of water, so keep them ( and any other water-loving plants you can’t live without), in separate beds from the rest of your garden. Drought-hardy plants may resent water once they are established.

Now to turn that labor-intensive landscape into your low-maintenance paradise!

? Re-think grass. Lawn takes a lot of water and work. If you can cut the grass, so to speak, you will eliminate all that mowing, edging, fertilizing while cutting off the biggest water-hog in your household. Grass on steep slopes is silly. Replacing a steep lawn with walls and drought-hardy plantings is one of the best landscape investments you can make.


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Top 10 Plants…To Stop Planting! (Part 2)

Part 2 of my post on the top 10 plants to stop planting in Pacific Northwest gardens.  Although a number of these apply pretty much anywhere!  If you missed my first post, see the first 5 plants on my list to stop planting in Pacific Northwest gardens. And read on for the next 5!

  • grass
  • Grass (as in your lawn) We’ve been hearing this for years and sorry but it’s true – the cost and impact of a lawn are tremendous: water, fertilizer, gas, oil, pollution, lawn mower repairs, blade sharpening, bags for grass cuttings and extra fees if you fill up your yard waste bin – and that’s just what it takes just to have one of those lawns that goes brown during the 3 months of summer when you’re most likely to be out on it!  Time to get creative people!
  • Heuchera- (Coral Bells) The varieties of new Huechera that have been available the last few years are amazing. These are truly beautiful plants, but it’s time to keep them out of garden beds and only use them in containers or as annual color spots. Two reasons: they are really susceptible to cyclamen grub – if you’ve ever tugged on one while pruning off a spent flower only to have it pop out of the ground like it was just sitting on top of the soil – well, that was because all the roots were eaten off by cyclamen grub. Also the newer varieties are fragile and won’t live through most winters.  Don’t pay for perennial plants that die in the winter.
  • Plants pruned into boxes, shapes, and square hedges -This is what they call “Shear Madness”.  Formal hedging should be used only at the entries to court buildings, libraries, college campuses and at DisneyWorld. The time required for proper maintenance is costly, especially if done right and not just chopped at with an electric or gas hedge trimmer.  If you plant the right plant in the right place and give it the proper space you will only  need light seasonal pruning.
  • In the vegetable garden - Zucchini, Corn and Potatoes- These vegetables require a ton of space and water – and are just not worth it unless of course you have a huge vegetable garden with all the space in the world. But for the small backyard gardener (who has wisely ripped out most of the lawn and turned it over to being a small back yard vegetable patch!)  these vegetables are not worth your precious space.  Since they are so cheap to buy use your beds to save you money by planting things that will produce a lot of food in a small space like bush beans, lettuce, spinach, herbs, carrots, beets, radishes,  and cabbages. And don’t forget the vining plants that you can grow vertically in the same beds like tomatoes, pole beans, peas, cucumbers and grapes.
  • bambooBamboo – This amazing plant is just too dangerous to let get loose in your backyard garden.  Even clumping varieties with proper barriers installed can cause problems eventually.  Bamboo can be an excellent addition to the garden but keep it in a pot on a deck or patio so it never gets free.  Or you can insert pots of bamboo into the garden for texture – just be sure to lift the pot a few times a year and cut off any roots trying to sneak out.  Bamboo planted in a pot will live for years and you can divide them every few years in 4ths and double your pots of bamboo in no time – creating that grove you always wanted – just on your patio!

Do you have plants you feel aren’t worth the investment?  I’d love to hear ‘em!  Post a comment and share your thoughts…


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Top 10 Plants…To Stop Planting! (Part 1)

YES, I am going there… And will be completely honest about the plants I would really love to not see in a Pacific Northwest Garden again.

Two of these plants are actually on my top ten favorite plants of all time! But I’ve had it with their messes, needs, problems and overuse. You want to save some money and some time? Get these plants out of your garden and have a professional landscaper replace them with  low maintenance alternatives!  And if you have gardeners who take care of your plantings for you this will cut down on their time in the garden as well.

  • Ceanothus

    Ceanothus

    Ceanothus (California Wild Lilac)  – boy do I love it’s bloom – but over time the lower limbs die off as this plant gets bigger.  Pruning destroys it’s natural form which is part of it’s beauty.  It also does not like a cold winter and since they are usually used as either hedge material or focal points this can mean a big loss in a cold winter.

  • Evergreen Magnolias - I know – How can I include them!? But these trees shed leaves all the time, their leaves don’t break down easily and if left to pile up, are so heavy and big that they ruin any plantings below.  Magnolias are also another plant that should be pruned very lightly (if ever) and rarely are afforded the right space to grow to maturity without any pruning.  Even you’ve got the space, they will “self prune”.  Inside branches will die off from lack of light as the canopy gets higher. Magnolias are a very soft wood and are prone to damage in even light winds.
  • Phormium (Flax) These plants have become all the rage and they are definitely striking -  years ago they were considered annuals but hardier breeding and temperature changes have allowed many of them to live across many seasons and even bloom.  However, one long cold snap like the winter of 2008 in Seattle and it’s over for these warm weather plants. Plus, if there is steady wind their tips are always brown, bent and damaged.  It
    Phormium

    Phormium

    can take up to an hour to properly clean up a large one.

  • Hybrid Tea Roses- Again, multiple problems here;  bugs, rust, powdery mildew, black spots, rotten buds……and the many dollars and hours spent combating all of these just to get a rose bloom that will be wiped out as soon as it rains.  Unless roses are given perfect siting, (which is frankly an unattractive spacing of plants with no other plants around), soil requirements and maintenance, they always end up with an ailment of some kind.
  • Hebes- This one I will definitely miss. Having said that, I’ll soft pitch this one – go for it and use them again if you don’t mind the probable cost of replacement in a colder than normal winter.  This last winter of 2008 was cold enough to wipe out many of the various kinds of Hebe with some of the most desirable being the most easily lost to a frigid death.  These plants have become very popular with good reason the last few years so consultation with a nursery person or landscaper on which ones can still be used with some confidence might be a wise move.

Check back on Wednesday for the next five on my list!

Phormium (Flax) These plants have become all the rage and they are striking -  years ago they were considered annuals but hardier breeding and temperature changes have allowed many of them to live acreoss many seasons and even bloom.  However, one long cold snap like the winter of 2008 in Seattle and it’s over for these warm weather plants. Plus if there is steady wind their tips are always brown, bent and damaged.  It can up to an hour toproperly clean up a large one.

Box of Rain Landscape on HelpHive


 
Posted in Landscape & Garden, Landscape Design | 2 Comments »

Creating Paths and Patios with Pavers

pavers1Beautiful and usable yards are a blend of hardscapes and planted areas, of places to be and places to see. Defining areas is a process of creating outdoor rooms without walls and sometimes with borders that are intentionally fuzzy. Pavers can provide both natural looking patio areas and softer looking paths through a number of design options. Pavers are easier to conform to irregular terrain changes. They aren’t a choice you make to save money over a poured concrete slab, but rather for different looks and options possible.  Pavers are more eco-friendly as they allow rainwater to soak in rather than contribute to runoff.  Pavers also allow for later changes, redesigns, and access should you need to run a plumbing or electrical line.  So, what should you look for in a quality project?

  • First consider overall yard drainage and contours. You may need to change or improve paths for runoff of excess rain. You might want  to consider any needs for French drains. Are there any other changes in terrain that would be more aesthetically pleasing? If you are creating a paver patio you’ll want to end up with an area as flat as possible and in a way that integrates with the rest of the yard.
  • Excavation. Pavers involve sand over a base, so you will need to remove a lot of dirt. Recently a client of mine was able to have her huge 12 yard pile picked up for free through Craig’s List. Care needs to be taken to assure that the level of the dirt is a fairly consistent (plus or minus 1/4″ is standard, high or low by 1/2″ is still okay) plane that parallels your desired finish plane.
  • Base. You will want to install a 3″ base which should be compacted with a plate compacter. If you have very solid stable soil, 2 1/2″ will be fine. Less solid and stable can easily use 4 to 5″.  If your ground is wet from a spring or high water table you might need to invest in a geotech fabric designed to create buildable soils over near swamps. If you want to drive on your pavers you will want to add an additional 3 to 6″ to what you would otherwise need.
  • Sand. The sand layer is typically 1 1/2″. A lot of “paver sand” contains a lot of pebbles in the 1/8″, 3/16″ or even the occasional 1/4″ dimension. This makes placing pavers more difficult. As such, you may want to add a thin layer of fine, perhaps “playground” sand. You will also want fine sand to fill cracks between pavers after placement.
  • Pavers. The least expensive pavers are the 12″ x 12″ or 8″ x 16″, 1 1/2″ thick, concrete paver in grey or “red” (pink).  These can look great.  If you’re willing to spend more, you can get textured pavers that look almost stonelike, with a variety of colors, and ranging from rough to quite smooth on the feet. Smaller pavers can be placed more quickly. Larger pavers may need adjustment including pulling them up and adding sand. There will always be some edges or corners that are above or below the average plane of pavers. You may want to go over the pavers (gap fill-in sand in place) with a plate compacter to settle pavers into a nice plane. This will not crack your pavers :>}.
  • Patterns. Similar to creating patterns for tile, you can offset joint lines, or create a random looking  pattern that repeats every couple feet incorporating more than one paver size.
  • Joint size. Some opt for a tight, almost no joint design. One problem to be aware of is when an occasional joint is big in a no gap system it stands out more. The usual minimum gap is 1/8″ which allows fine sand to settle into cracks and makes for a more solid paver and it naturally hides larger joints that occur. Two reasons to use a larger joint is because you like the look with the pavers you have choosen, or in some cases to allow fill-in plants to grow in the gaps. On one project we used a 1″ gap pattern on pavers between a lawn and driveway and put sod in the gaps. This allowed the extra width we were trying to create for the driveway and a green look that blended with the yard.
  • Cutting pavers. Pavers are cut by a wet saw using a diamond blade. Cuts require a steady hand and the safety practices of a professional. Some homeowners can do this, but care should be taken in accurately assessing your ability.

Depending on the size of your project, the hardness of your soil, and the size of your pavers, this type of project can be quite large. You may want to hire a professional – find a Tile and Stone Professional or find a Concrete and Paving Professional to help.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive
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Posted in Concrete & Paving, Decks & Outdoor Structures, Landscape Design, Tile & Stone | No Comments »