To start:

• Determine how many of your things can fit in uniform sized plastic storage containers. There will always be things that won’t fit like skis and you may resist grouping many small things in one container, but storage efficiency is found in uniformity.
• Once you have decided on a container size that will work, shelves are designed around your chosen containers.
• We ended up using clear plastic containers, approximately 16″ wide x 25″ long in two heights: 11″ and 16 1/2″. This complicated the shelf spacing by requiring 19″ for the tall containers and 24″ to stack two of the smaller containers.

Here is one good basic shelf design:

• Back shelf supports are 2″ x 2″, bought as such, or ripped from a 2″ x 4″, and nailed or screwed to the studs on the wall.
• Front supports are 2″ x 2″ or a 2″ x 4″ placed flat.
• You may need intermediary support for larger projects–that is, vertical members which rest on your garage floor. 2″ x 2″ front supports are okay up to about 42″ and flat 2″ x 4″ can span as much as 6′.
• Plywood has a grain direction. It is designed to have the most strength when the 8′ direction is perpendicular to the supports. If your shelf system is 24″ deep, 24″ x 48″ shelves will be made from each sheet.
• Shelf spacing is determined by taking your storage container height, adding a few inches, adding the thickness of shelving (flat 2″ x 4″ plus 1/2″ CDX is 2″) and figuring how many of these can fit in your vertical space. For example if your containers are almost 17″ tall, you might start by taking 17″ adding 3″ for a little space and 2″ for shelving. Five shelf spaces are 5 times 22 for 110″, less one 2″ shelf for 108″ (4 shelves make 5 spaces). If you have 8′6″ (102″) from floor to ceiling you might reduce the “extra space” from 3″ to about 1 13/16″ to fit in your desired number of spaces or go with one less shelf.

What if you want shelves that look more finished for a porch or utility room?

• The same 2″ framing came be used. Framing members can be prefinished with a stain/sealer or painted. For a more finished look ripped edges should be rounded and if you are staining, painted lumber ends should be belt sanded clean.
• Shelving can be stained plywood, or, using side by side 1″ x 12″ pine boards offers an upgraded look and alternative framing option. If running the boards from side to side, they can easily span 3 to 4′ and for light storage up to 5′.  2″ x 2″ framing is then perpendicular to the back wall and attached to vertical 2″ x 2″ or 2″ x 4″s.

Though this work is fairly basic for a skilled carpenter, it still may take some time. I have been asked to fix shelves installed by homeowners or unskilled workers and often found projects installed which violate basic framing and structure principals and are not able to support the weight placed on them. Often they are dangerous. I know shelving should be within the domain of the weekend warrior but you will still want to make sure they are done right. Consider finding a recommended handyman or a recommended local installation specialist for a lasting project.

• Decide how much space you need for long coats and dresses. These will need full height hanging space.
• Divide remaining available space into a top and bottom hanging space. In order to provide enough vertical space for items the top closet rod can end up a little higher than ideal and floor space for shoes is often impractical. Still it’s hard to pass up the two for one bonus on space.
• Consider a shelf section for shoes. Alternatively there are numerous hanging shoe racks that work well.
• Shelf & rod type: Do you want the traditional painted or stained pine shelves and fir closet rods? Double rod sections are usually supported in closet midsections by a vertical pine board. This may be part of a center shelf section such as for shoes or sweaters. Do you prefer clean contemporary lines? Consider wire shelving. Metal and plastic attachment devices are available for most every conceivable design. A method for cutting the steel is needed such as a hacksaw or a metal blade in a reciprocating saw. The rod section for hanging clothes is available in varieties that allow clothes to slide freely back and forth and some that have support elements attached to the rod so that movement is limited to a section. These latter can be a little frustrating when you are changing clothes in a hurry!
• Support: Clothes can be very heavy. It is best to locate all your back wall studs and put a shelf support every other stud for studs 16″ on center and every stud for those 24″ on center.
• What if I want a more luxurious look? You can install cabinetry with drawers of various depths, with doors that conceal open shelving, or with sections with closet rods inside. You can hang an open rod & shelf combination in matching woods to the side of an installed armoire cabinet for a mixed look. Cabinets can be custom made or puchased from any home improvement store. Self-installation of a cabinet requires only attaching the placed cabinet to the wall with screws that go into studs. Attachment of exposed shelf and rod connections requires more precision.
• More storage: The timeless trick of storing offseason clothes in a plastic bin or sealed bag in the garage or attic will generate a lot more space.

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