Archive for the ‘Inspection Services’ Category

The 1, 2, 3’s of Home Furnace Maintenance

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

furnace_largeIt’s wonderful to live in a society in which we can flip a switch or turn a knob and get warm in winter. In fact it’s so easy, we can sometimes forget about our heating system and any maintenance needs it might have. Perhaps we’d rather not think about something that big for fear that servicing it will cost a fortune. As with most things a little knowledge and facing the monster :>} is best. What do you need to do now and what should you be aware of?

Change the filter. This is easy to do yourself. Writing this post reminded me that I hadn’t changed mine in over a year, so I did it today and found a high performance filter that lasts 12 months, and does better at filtering out allergens with “electrostatically charged fibers” and a “1550 microparticle rating.”  Usually you should change your filter every 3 months.

Have professional HVAC service checks. The HVAC industry recommends twice per year checkups. Most people find that once per year is more than adequate.

What is involved in a maintenance service?

  • Gas piping is checked for leaks.
  • Burner combustion is checked for efficiency.
  • Heat exchanger is checked for efficiency, leaks, safety.
  • Moving parts are lubricated.
  • Functioning of controls is checked.
  • Electrical connections are checked and tightened.
  • Fans/blowers are cleaned.

You might be able to go longer between service calls. This makes the most sense if your unit is fairly new. At stake can be efficiency of your system, and in some cases safety. Older systems can develop leaks, which can include carbon monoxide. A CO2 detector alarm is a good measure. For most it isn’t a matter of the exact cycle of maintenance, but rather doing it all. You really don’t want to ignore this important household system.

Should you get uprades to your system? Depending on your system and space requirements you may be able to add a few options. There are filter systems that can take allergens, bacteria, and even viruses out of your conditioned air. You can add AC to your current system. You may be able to save energy while making your home more comfortable with a new programmable thermostat. You might change the blower motor or controlling circuitry. There may be exposed ductwork that could use more insulation. And you could insulate your return air – these last 2 points obviously to increase efficency and energy usage.

When should I replace my system? Systems over 10 years old are candidates, however systems are usually designed to last 25 to 30 years. Efficiency, designated in AFUE % can get as low as 50% in an older or ill maintained system. Regular maintenance and service can increase those numbers. Whether a new 90% efficient system (there are some that claim 95%) will pay for itself in 8 to ten years really depends on how much heat you use each winter. Here’s an example: if you’ve currently got a 70% efficient system and it costs $1,200 a year compared to a 90% system which could reduce your bill by $300 a year,the numbers aren’t going to pencil and return the investment in any reasonable time period.  If you spend quite a bit more on your HVAC system per year and you get a highly efficient system along with a sophisticated thermostat, the numbers might work.  It really will depend on your situation – so sharpen those pencils and do the math before plunging into a purchase of this size!

And after any and all research you do, it’s always helpful to seek the services of a recommended HVAC professional.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive

 
Posted in Chimney & Fireplace Service, Ducts & Vents Cleaning, Heating, Cooling & Ventilation, Inspection Services, Major Appliance Repair, Plumbing | 1 Comment »

Hidden Electrical Hazards

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

We recently had the opportunity to interview the owner of Mr Electric of North King and Snohomish Counties, Paul Livesay, and Eric – one of his electricians.  The topic: electrical safety and the hidden hazards that homeowners should be aware of – read on to learn more about this important topic…

ElectricalSafety1. What kind of certification or training does an electrician need to have before they can do electrical work?

A licensed residential electrician must have a minimum of 4000 hours of  documented apprenticeship under the direct  supervision of a licensed journeyman electrician, plus classroom work and pass a comprehensive examination administered by the Washington State Dept.of Labor and Industries. Also, to maintain his/her license and assure the electrician is current with any changes in electric code, an electrician must annually complete a minimum number of Continuing Education Units (CEUs). Compliance with the continuing education requirement is closely monitored by the Dept of Labor and Industries.

2. What are some of the different electrical issues that you see in a typical home?

  • Old and poorly maintained (dirty) service panels
  • Over reliance on extension cords resulting in overloaded circuits
  • Using light bulbs in fixtures with different ratings (many people don’t know that the wiring in their table lamp is rated so they may put a 100 watt bulb in a 75 watt fixture)
  • Older homes without GFCIs (ground fault circuit interrupters) as current code requires

3. In various parts of country, including here in the Pacific Northwest, we have many older homes.  What types of issues do you see with these older homes?

  • As mentioned above , no GFCIs
  • Old fuse boxes with knob and tube systems
  • Aluminum wiring  (common in late 60s to early 70s) which has possibly corroded and thus becomes a hazard
  • Ungrounded electrical systems

4. Are there preventive measures (installing of GFIs, replacing of panels, wiring etc.) you recommend homeowners taking for household safety?

The question, to a large degree, answers itself. Even if wired correctly and to code in the first place electrical systems performance and safety diminish over extended periods of time. New knowledge and technology necessitate changes in the National Electric Code, nearly all of which address safety. Two recent code changes that come to mind are the requirement for tamper proof receptacles throughout a house and Arc Fault breakers in the main service panel.

5. Say I’m a homeowner and am doing a DIY project that requires electrical work, why would I care to get a permit before doing the work?

  • Purchasing  a permit will require  the DIYer to think through the project in advance of going to the permit counter and explain exactly the goal and details of the project
  • It will begin the proper documentation (record) of electrical work performed at the house which will be helpful in the event another electric project is done by someone other than the DIYer or the house is to be sold and a real estate inspector has questions
  • The house will be professionally inspected by a licensed authority to ensure the work has been done in accordance with current electrical code (again for the purposes of safety)

6. What regular maintenance/service should a homeowner consider to ensure the electrical safety of their home and family?

  • Have the home annually inspected by a licensed electrician where he/she will check for proper system grounding  and bonding, breaker function, panel cleanliness (possibly get panel tune-up), code changes, etc.
  • Check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. If you don’t have them, get them.

7. With fall and then winter, we’ll be seeing more opportunities to put up outdoor lights etc.  Do you have tips on how to wire these with safety in mind?

Depending on the additional electrical load it is usually advisable to install  a new dedicated circuit(s) and, if so , be sure to install approved outdoor receptacles with GFCI protection. If the project is just seasonal or Holiday lighting additional power may not be necessary, call a professional electrician for advice

8. Any other tips for homeowners you’d like to share?

If you are beginning an electrical project, large or small, and are wondering what the green wire connects to, call a qualified licensed electrician. When in doubt, always call a professional. After all, it’s about  SAFETY!


Mr Electric-NW King and Snohomish Counties on HelpHive

 
Posted in Electrical, Inspection Services | No Comments »

We just bought a great house with character (yes, a bit older of a house)…now what?

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

sold home

I interviewed Eric Metzger, owner of “Fixit Once Repairs” – they do everything from home remodels to cleaning gutters and painting houses.  I asked Eric a variety  of questions on the step after the BIG STEP – buying a slightly older home.  What are some important aspects to consider in a “mature home” to ensure you get the most out of your new investment.  Read on to hear what Eric had to say!

What are some of the key factors to think about after buying an older home?

First, you should think about these before you buy the home. After you buy, it’s too late. Would you buy a used car without having a trusted auto mechanic inspect it and take it for a test drive?

Get an inspection done by a referred home inspection company (find a certified home inspector on HelpHive) other than your realtor’s.  Then work with a referred licensed contractor/handyman to determine what needs to be repaired based on the inspection.  For certain items, inspectors are forced to document as protection for both themselves and their insurance!  Everything else on the report will be cosmetic or safety issues that need to be taken care of, or might need to be done to secure financing. These costs can be negotiated as part of the purchase of the home – have some or all of the work completed before closing depending on who’s paying for the work.

What areas should I check first to ensure I’m not going to run into any problems?

Your inspector will cover the major ones in the report.   Structural, electrical, plumbing, moisture damage, evidence of pest infestation or damage caused from pests and/or wood destroying organisms, drainage, roofing, heating/cooling, and anything else visible during that inspection that is notable..

How can I determine if I have wiring issues aside from waiting for something to break?

This goes back to the inspection.   “Fixit Once Repairs” did a complete gut and rebuild of a home in Everett, due to an overloaded circuit in the garage.  The breaker didn’t trip causing a fire that did $115,000 worth of damage and took two months to complete. After gutting the home, the only items left were the exterior wall studs, siding, roof trusses and the sheathing on top of the trusses. All windows, doors, wiring, drywall, flooring, roof, insulation, cabinetry, fixtures, etc. were damaged from water and smoke. Electricity can be your friend if handled correctly and safely. It can cause lots of damage or worse if not respected.

How can I determine if I have plumbing issues aside from waiting for something to break?home-inspection

The inspection should identify any current issues. Once you own the home, inspect or have someone inspect all areas in the home where plumbing is accessible and visible, including attics, crawlspaces, and the garage. Where pipe, etc. run through walls, look for evidence of staining or water damage/leaks. Quarterly inspections by the homeowner and a yearly complete inspection is what Eric normally recommends.

What about insulation, windows and the furnace?  How do I ensure I’m going to be okay through the winter?

Insulation:

Age of the home will most likely determine the R value of the insulation in the walls of the home unless it has had extensive remodeling done. The higher the R value number, the better the resistance to allowing heat or cold into the home. The parts of the home that are accessible, such as crawl spaces and attics, may have been upgraded. Eric recommends R38 or higher in attics and R21 for walls/crawlspaces.  Eric recommends having non-insulated areas dealt with right away to conserve energy and reduce costs. Some insulation is better than none. Older homes that have not been upgraded could potentially have minimal or no insulation in the attic or crawl, and as little as R7 in the walls if any.  A home built in 1972, for example, was built with R7 in the walls and R13 in the attic. Current code is R21 for walls and R38 for attics.

Windows:

Vinyl or wood framed windows are better than aluminum because they don’t radiate the outside temperatures (heat/cold), like aluminum framed windows do. Dual pane (two sheets of glass with an air space in between) windows are better than single pane windows for insulation value as well as sound dampening. On new windows, look for a Low E rating (indicates a low energy rating which is good). If you don’t know if the windows in a home are dual pane or not, take a lighter or match and put it next to the window. If you see a reflection in the second pane, it is a dual pane window.

HVAC:

Furnaces or HVAC/heat pumps should have filters cleaned at least monthly and a maintenance service done by a qualified technician annually. A well maintained system will save you in the long run on both energy costs and repair bills. Dirt and dust is not the friend of an HVAC system or furnace.  Just like changing the oil and filters in your car, you need to change and/or clean the filters in your HVAC system.  There are many safety related items involving HVAC systems that could be dangerous or even fatal. If your home did not have the manuals for your system, check for a sticker on your system for the company/model/serial numbers and contact the company to request a copy.

The house has a basement.  What type of issues should I be prepared for or look for?

Moisture/water leaking through the walls or floor. If the exterior walls were not treated with a sealant or that sealant has deteriorated with age, the walls could start to have water leaking into the basement. If the foundation drainage system is damaged, clogged, or non existent, water could be standing underground against the wall of the basement and will eventually find a way in.  Basements inherently tend to be damp and moist and therefore you need to inspect for mold issues caused by lack of air flow and moisture. There is quite a bit of evidence on health issues caused by mold, so basement inspections should be taken seriously.

To learn more about Home inspection, visit the National Home Inspectors Website.


Lindsay on HelpHive

 
Posted in Handyman, Inspection Services | No Comments »

Home Inspections: What Should You Know?

By Doug
Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

Many Real Estate agents will strongly suggest that you get a Buyer’s Home Inspection as part of your purchase agreement. There is a miriad of different levels of proficiency required to be a Home Inspector throughout the country. This can even vary from county to county and city to city. In many states there is no license or specialized training required. There is a National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) that can give you a starting point for what you might expect from your local inspector. I will discuss what the typical inspector does and what the report should cover to be of value to you as a buyer. Is an inspection a good idea, and what does it do for you?

  • Do it yourself? If you are knowledgeable in all of the systems and structures of a house, you can find a blank report online and do your own inspection. Generally this is not the case.
  • Knowledge. Most home buyers do not have a background in the construction trades and are unaware of the issues that can arise from faulty systems and structures in a house. A good inspection report will identify any areas of concern for both immediate attention and will project probable future concerns.
  • Omissions. There are several areas that are usually not included in the report and often require other specialized inspections. These can include: presence of asbestos, gases and chemicals (Radon, Methane, Radiation, Formaldehyde), wood destroying organisms, mold, mildew, fungi, rodents and existence of lead.
  • Structures. The basic framing elements of a house (walls, ceilings, floors, roof, foundation) should all be sound.
  • Exteriors. This part of the inspection can include sidewalks, driveways, fences, fascia and trim boards, doors, windows, outdoor lights and receptacles, drainage, grading, landscaping, siding, house elevations and chimneys.
  • Attic and roof. An attic can tell you a lot about the home’s history, and reveal potential problems. The truss and rafters should be solid. Any previous fire or water damage should be carefully noted. The amount (R-Value) of insulation should be calculated. Proper attic ventilation (including baffles to keep insulation from blocking air inlets) should be observed. The part of the chimney that passes through the attic should be sound with no cracks, mortar damage or water stains. Any signs of rodent infiltration (nests, feces, food, damaged wood or insulation) into the attic space should be noted. The external roof should also be inspected for age and condition of shingles, flashing and gutter integrity. A roof certification would have to come from a roofing specialist.
  • Systems. The inspector should review the condition of the water heater, furnace, air conditioner, duct work, fireplace and/or inserts, and sprinklers.
  • Appliances. The report should show that the dishwasher, range and oven, built-in microwave, garbage disposal, and smoke alarms are all in working condition.
  • Garage. Whether attached or detached, the following should be inspected: slab floor, walls, ceiling, vents, entry, firewall, main door, door openers, exterior siding, windows and roof.
  • Plumbing. From the report you should know the type and condition of pipes used for drinking water, as well as drain-waste-vent systems. Showers, toilets, sinks, faucets, and traps should be checked. Usually sewer (city or septic) is a specialized inspection from others.
  • Electrical. Look for information on the main panel and any sub-panels, circuit breakers, kind of wiring used, grounding system, exhaust fans, receptacles, ceiling fans, light fixtures and switches.

After the report is received, you may want to discuss the findings with a general contractor to help you prioritize the list into urgent and secondary issues, before you approach the seller with a new offer or negotiate which modifications you must have done before the purchase can go forward. There will be some issues uncovered that violate building codes or are requirements from a lender, that must be remedied before moving forward with the purchase.

Find Quality Local Home Inspection Experts


Doug on HelpHive

 
Posted in Inspection Services | No Comments »

Improve Your Home’s Energy Efficiency

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

Where heat escapes from the average home

Replace the incandescent light bulbs with CFL’s – check…done.

Now what?  Many homeowners are asking exactly that question – as we learn and hear more about global climate change, an increasingly important question for many of us is what else can I do to help?  How can I reduce my carbon footprint?  What can I do to live a more sustainable lifestyle?  This week I discussed some potential answers to these questions with Sloan Ritchie, owner of Cascade Built, a green real estate developer here in Seattle.

There are a number of lifestyle and product choices you can make to help out – however, some are more available than others and some may be cost prohibitive at the current time; who ran out and bought the new Tesla all electric (and very expensive) roadster for Christmas?.  And we all won’t be moving into LEED rated homes anytime soon.  LEED rated homes are a rounding error in terms of market availability and these high efficiency, environmentally friendly dwellings carry a premium price tag (although that’s changing).

Having said all of that, you can still help out in your 1992 built, 2000 sq foot <fill in house type>.  Two words – energy efficiency.  Or more specifically heating efficiency.  Did you know that in the average home 50% of the utility/energy usage is for heating?  If you’re going to expend energy to heat the air in your home, you don’t want that same air to immediately find it’s way to the outside (and possibly cold) world.  I learned a new building term this week (thanks Sloan) – ACH or “air changes per hour”.  It’s a volumetric measure of how much air is replaced in your house in a single hour, presumably air from the outside.  A tightly built home has an ACH rating of .25 – .35.  An average house built today has an ACH in the 1.4 – 1.8 range.  An older, more “loose” house comes in around 2.5 or greater.  So, a tightly built (or updated) home, which by the way is a key element in LEED rated homes, makes better use of the energy expended by keeping much of that warm air in the house – which means using less energy to heat – which means you’re doing more than CFLs.

So for those of us that make up the majority of the homeowners and live in an average or older home, how can we improve our ACH?  Well, here’s a quick hit list to get you started:

  1. “air sealing” – the idea is to plug, fill or otherwise block pathways for the air to the outside world – under each faceplate for switches, electrical outlets, phone and cable jacks, install a foam gasket (watch a very short video here) to help prevent air from escaping
  2. While you’ve got the faceplates for various switches and outlets off, have a look to see if you’ve got gaps between the electric box receptacle and the framing.  If so, either caulk (if it’s a small gap) or pack with foam for larger gaps
  3. Make sure you’re windows are well caulked and that the caulk isn’t deteriorating; re-apply caulking as necessary
  4. Check the weather stripping on all exterior doors; if it’s either non-existent or deteriorating, replace it
  5. Take a quick look in crawl spaces, attics and any other non-heated spaces where you might have pipes – find the ones carrying hot water and insulate them.
  6. Make sure to change your furnace’s filter at least twice a year – similar to dryer vent cleaning, the more flow you have through your filters the more efficiently your furnace will run
  7. Next to heating, refrigerators are next in line for improvements in efficiency (and thus savings on the energy use front) – to help the refrigerator be more efficient, simply vacuum the front grill at the bottom of your refrigerator on a regular basis; you guessed it – more flow of air = better efficiency

All of these tips should be doable in a weekend after a trip to your favorite hardware store…  If you’re up for the next level of effort (and potentially investment), here are few more things to consider:

  • how energy efficient are your windows or doors?  Are there more efficient or performant windows available?
  • what about the level of insulation you’ve got in your walls and attic?  Although the builder of your house likely applied what was required at the time, it may be inadequate today, especially if you have an older house
  • Moisture prevention is another key aspect of proper home insulation; if you don’t have a vapor barrier or you have an inadequate vapor barrier between the walls/ceiling and your insulation, moisture can form where the warm air inside the house meets cold air outside the house (yep, you guessed it in your wall and ceiling spaces) – this is a sure way to reduce the efficiency of your insulation
  • what is the ACH of your home?  If you’d like to know, you can hire a professional home energy auditor to actually do a test and help diagnose where you’re losing precious air (using a blower door) or heat (using an infrared camera like the one used to take the picture above)

All of these items are very likely to require additional cost and you’ll probably want a professional involved in order to do it right.

Whatever path you choose, the effort you put into increasing the energy efficiency of your home will pay dividends – first through your own knowledge and peace of mind that you’ve done more than change the lightbulbs.  And once you’ve done a few of the items above, you’ll hopefully see the other type of green savings – that of saving $ on your utility bills.

Find Quality Local Home Inspection Experts

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Karim on HelpHive

 
Posted in Heating, Cooling & Ventilation, Inspection Services | 2 Comments »