Archive for the ‘Chimney & Fireplace Service’ Category

The 1, 2, 3’s of Home Furnace Maintenance

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

furnace_largeIt’s wonderful to live in a society in which we can flip a switch or turn a knob and get warm in winter. In fact it’s so easy, we can sometimes forget about our heating system and any maintenance needs it might have. Perhaps we’d rather not think about something that big for fear that servicing it will cost a fortune. As with most things a little knowledge and facing the monster :>} is best. What do you need to do now and what should you be aware of?

Change the filter. This is easy to do yourself. Writing this post reminded me that I hadn’t changed mine in over a year, so I did it today and found a high performance filter that lasts 12 months, and does better at filtering out allergens with “electrostatically charged fibers” and a “1550 microparticle rating.”  Usually you should change your filter every 3 months.

Have professional HVAC service checks. The HVAC industry recommends twice per year checkups. Most people find that once per year is more than adequate.

What is involved in a maintenance service?

  • Gas piping is checked for leaks.
  • Burner combustion is checked for efficiency.
  • Heat exchanger is checked for efficiency, leaks, safety.
  • Moving parts are lubricated.
  • Functioning of controls is checked.
  • Electrical connections are checked and tightened.
  • Fans/blowers are cleaned.

You might be able to go longer between service calls. This makes the most sense if your unit is fairly new. At stake can be efficiency of your system, and in some cases safety. Older systems can develop leaks, which can include carbon monoxide. A CO2 detector alarm is a good measure. For most it isn’t a matter of the exact cycle of maintenance, but rather doing it all. You really don’t want to ignore this important household system.

Should you get uprades to your system? Depending on your system and space requirements you may be able to add a few options. There are filter systems that can take allergens, bacteria, and even viruses out of your conditioned air. You can add AC to your current system. You may be able to save energy while making your home more comfortable with a new programmable thermostat. You might change the blower motor or controlling circuitry. There may be exposed ductwork that could use more insulation. And you could insulate your return air – these last 2 points obviously to increase efficency and energy usage.

When should I replace my system? Systems over 10 years old are candidates, however systems are usually designed to last 25 to 30 years. Efficiency, designated in AFUE % can get as low as 50% in an older or ill maintained system. Regular maintenance and service can increase those numbers. Whether a new 90% efficient system (there are some that claim 95%) will pay for itself in 8 to ten years really depends on how much heat you use each winter. Here’s an example: if you’ve currently got a 70% efficient system and it costs $1,200 a year compared to a 90% system which could reduce your bill by $300 a year,the numbers aren’t going to pencil and return the investment in any reasonable time period.  If you spend quite a bit more on your HVAC system per year and you get a highly efficient system along with a sophisticated thermostat, the numbers might work.  It really will depend on your situation – so sharpen those pencils and do the math before plunging into a purchase of this size!

And after any and all research you do, it’s always helpful to seek the services of a recommended HVAC professional.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive

 
Posted in Chimney & Fireplace Service, Ducts & Vents Cleaning, Heating, Cooling & Ventilation, Inspection Services, Major Appliance Repair, Plumbing | 1 Comment »

The Fall Tuneup: Preparing your Home for Winter

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

73016555What are the things that you can do to protect your home from the ravages of winter? What things can save you time and effort later? Here are some reminders that go a long way toward a worry free winter and coming into the spring in good shape.

Your roof: The roof of your home is the most important protection from the weather. If you can safely get up on a ladder to look from it or even get onto your roof you will notice more. Even from the ground look for loose or curled shingles, buildups of fallen debris in valleys or against gutters, and excessive moss. You might also inspect for water stains in your attic. Look at your ceiling around the house for any signs of leaks.  You will want your gutters and downspouts clean, and free of leaks or damage.  Any shingles needing repair and flashing needing roof cement should be done even if larger long term work is needed in the dry season. Overhanging branches should be pruned back. If the work exceeds what you can safely and correctly do contract the services of a professional roofer, roof and gutter cleaning service, or arborist.

Siding: If your siding is in generally good shape and is appropriately painted or sealed, look around windows and trim for places that need recaulking. If your siding is very close to the ground it may get splashed with mud and water. If the bottom boards seem dirty, consider cleaning and repainting just the bottom couple feet. You will get a lot of protection for your effort. Look for entry points for birds, bats, and rodents that may need repair.

Plumbing: You may have frost free hosebibbs. Even these can freeze if it gets cold enough. Consider any protection you need.

Yard: Look for containers that collect water that need to be removed or turned over. Cleanup or remove things that are easy now but will be a mess come spring. Look for overall yard drainage. Does water from downspouts lead away from house? Are there low spots or places against the house that need a reworked escape route? Store summer furniture in a dry place. Plan your pruning. Some trees and bushes may be pruned as early as September, but for most November is better. Do you want to give any garden beds a tilling before winter? Remember those bulbs you always planned to plant in the fall. Those with lawns may want to give an application of winterizer fertilizer.

Heat source: Furnaces filters should be changed. You may be due for a service call. Woodstoves with any creosote buildup will need  stovepipe cleaning. Do you need a professional? Electric baseboards should be vacuumed.

Other winter needs: You may need to line up snowplow services, call a landscape maintenance company for a one time yard cleanup after all the leaves fall, or have your septic tank pumped mid-winter. If you live in Seattle you might want to plan a January getaway to someplace below the 35th latitude line.


JR Mathwig Builders on HelpHive

 
Posted in Chimney & Fireplace Service, Drainage & Waterproofing, Gutter Cleaning, Handyman, Heating, Cooling & Ventilation, Landscape & Garden, Lawn Care, Major Appliance Repair, Roof Cleaning, Roofing & Gutters | No Comments »

The Chimney Chronicles

By Doug
Friday, January 23rd, 2009

Now that the Yuletide Season has passed, and Santa has completed his annual chimney sweep, it might be a good time to seriously assess the sometimes forgotten issues surrounding that smoke vent. I experienced the fright of a blazing chimney fire a few years ago, complete with frantic neighbors and fire trucks and firemen in the living room, in the attic and on the roof, water and steam and a citation to get my chimney cleaned. I learned a lot about chimneys and the importance of maintaining them. They are hidden away in a wall or structure that we hardly ever think about. It is my hope that this article will help you avoid some of the problems that they can produce.

I recently interviewed Philip Murphy, owner of Murphy’s Chimney Service to get some expert tips.  Philip began chimney service as a young 15 year old in Ireland, and has logged in many years of experience in all aspects of the business. He provides a  wide range of services including: gas and oil furnace linings, fireplace chimney linings, custom chimney caps, firebox repair and replacement, cleaning and gas log or fireplace installations.  I asked Philip for some tips that would help homeowners and he shared these:

  • Inspect your chimney annually to determine if there is a need for repairs or cleaning. By shining a bright flashlight up the chimney, you can see if there is an accumulation of soot deposits on the sides.
  • Burning “wet” or green wood can leave a lot of deposits adhering to the inside of the chimney which reduces the draft (air flow) up the chimney and can contribute to chimney fires.
  • Creosote, a natural by-product of burning wood, is a tar-like substance that condenses on the walls of chimneys and if left too long can turn to a hardened glaze that is a primary cause of fires. Philip is a big advocate of eradicating baked-on soot and creosote and then treating the chimney with anti-creosote deterrents. (The Mother Earth News has a detailed discussion about Creosote Removal.)
  • Check to see if your chimney has a rain cap (concrete or metal covering above the smoke’s exit point). A cap should be installed to keep rain from damaging the masonry inside the chimney or rusting the damper or firebox, and to keep out rodents (rats, squirrels), pine cones leaves and needles.
  • Many chimneys are poorly designed (i.e. damper set too low) and smoke enters the room. A retrofit called a “smoke apron” can be installed to cause the smoke to turn upwards and enter the chimney instead of following the path of least resistance into the house.
  • Gas inserts can be quite expensive to purchase and install, but gas log systems with a heat deflector that sends heat into the room can be a good replacement for burning wood while retaining the “authentic” fireplace look and benefiting from the warmth.
  • And one last word of advice from a seasoned contractor: When you receive a bid, always read the fine print and always get references from previous customers (and call some of them).

Be safe and be warm during these cold nights!

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Doug on HelpHive

 
Posted in Chimney & Fireplace Service | No Comments »