Archive for the ‘Remodels & Additions’ Category

Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting and Electrical

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010
ugly kitchen light

Ugly Old Fluorescent

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I: Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

If you have decided to remodel your kitchen and have the costs in front of you, you are likely dealing with some sticker shock. While it is easy to get carried away, it is just as easy to make critical mistakes in the name of saving money. Now is the time to remodel your lighting and electrical receptacles.

Take time to think through where you need more light for workspaces and consider accent lighting. Adding receptacles, or changing their locations, and making sure their circuits can carry the load makes good sense.

Where are the wires going to go?

Some wiring runs can be exposed behind torn out cabinets making some changes easy. There is usually some drywall work needed somewhere though, and this means it can pay to open up a path in your ceiling or wall if needed to bring in more lighting or receptacles.

kitchen lights 2

Pendants and Recessed

Getting light where it’s needed

You want good overall general brightness and you want to eliminate any shadows in workspaces. This may be best accomplished with a combination of overhead lighting and under cabinet fluorescents. Depending on the kitchen design style some will prefer to accomplish all with recessed lights.

Accent Lighting

Accent lights can add drama to your kitchen. These can be recessed mini-cans, pointable lights,  or pendants. Usually the light is tightly focused rather than broadly scattered. You may want to use a pair of spots over an eating bar, or showcase a high end range. They can function as the lights you leave on when you want low light and they can add to the general lighting for task areas. Some create a nice look with over cabinet rope lighting or fluorescents.

Don’t Skimp on Receptacles

Most kitchens don’t have enough receptacles or placement is not well thought out, or just doesn’t match the layout of your small appliances.When adding receptacles your contractor should make sure that planned load does not exceed the capacity of circuits used. Sometimes you need to bring in extra circuits from the main panel. Assuming load requirements can be met single duplex receptacles might be doubled up for convenience. Still additional locations are often needed. Make sure over stove microwaves, garbage disposals and dishwashers have grounded receptacles and are not hard wired. This will make for easier future service. You may want a receptacle above your upper cabinets for adding holiday and party lighting.

Make sure you hire a recommended, licensed electrician. We have come across a lot of improper wiring through the years and the people have been very fortunate disaster didn’t occur. The money you spend now on lighting and electrical receptacles will add immensely to your overall remodeling effort and the cost during a remodel can save a lot over making it a separate project.


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Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
kitchen_countertops1

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I:  Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

New or refurbished cabinets are admittedly the most noticeable part of a kitchen remodel. New countertops though, often hold second place, competing with appliances and flooring for the spot. Replacing cabinets without new countertops often gives an unfinished look.

How do you decide what best fits your kitchen design and lifestyle? How can you prioritize your spending? Countertops perform two functions: utility and art. Ease of upkeep and how they assist daily tasks on one hand and at times stunning beauty on the other. Countertops are both basic function and an element of style that work with the layout, cabinets, floors, faucets, lighting, appliances, and paint.

Sometimes the main need in a kitchen remodel is the countertops. Cabinets and appliances may be of high quality and in great shape. Perhaps the countertop has been damaged or is a dated look that doesn’t fit overall design goals. Much more often countertops are replaced as part of a larger project involving other major items such as cabinets and any decisions are linked to the overall budget of the entire project. Since many countertop choices are relatively expensive establishing a budget range early is helpful. Soon you’ll want to check with some local countertop experts.

Quartz and Granite

Contemporary styled and more expensive kitchens commonly have very nice cabinetry and expensive appliances. In keeping with that look and that budget level the current popular match is a quartz or granite countertop. By these we mean manufactured products. The quartz product is 93-95% ground quartz crystals bound with resin binders and coloring agents. While granite is available in natural cut slabs most “granite” countertops are manufactured with ground granite and resins. These run $65 to $90 per square foot installed.  Countertop depth is usually 25 1/2″, not two feet, and both the extra 1 1/2″ and the backsplash are counted. Additionally your edging is priced at $2 to 6 per inch. Yes, inch. While these costs can add up very quickly, it is difficult to think of a nicely done kitchen remodel in this class without a quartz or granite countertop.

Other options:

  • Solid surface. These are acrylic resin surfaces that run closer to $50 per square foot and may have a standard edge at no additional charge. A client of mine, who wanted to investigate this option to save a few dollars said, “It looks plastic-y.” Still in the right application it can be a “smart look.”
  • Laminate. The non-romantic description is plastic over particle board. Running around $25 per square foot, and sometimes less, the extra 1 1/2″, backsplash and standard edging are all included. Advantages include low cost, durable surface, hundreds of color choices, and even DIY possibilities. To avoid a dated or cheap look take care in selecting a custom edging and inserts such as oak or manufactured quartz. The very best I’ve seen in laminate is the use of natural stone or vibrant colors with tile, oak or quartz backsplash and a custom edge.
  • Concrete. Poured in place concrete counters run the gamut from parking a sidewalk in your kitchen to polished terrazzo looks. Some have gotten the look they wanted and even saved money. Quality levels and prices are all over the place.
  • Glass. Solid tempered glass is available for contemporary motifs. Recycled glass is a completely different feel. It often has embedded stones, sometimes metal–even seashells. Design options are divergent.
  • Stainless. Stainless steel may seem at home only in a commercial kitchen but it is amazing how adaptable it is to differing architectural styles and time periods. Worries of a cold look are easily offset by adventurous paint choices and the vibrant colors of the produce in your kitchen.
  • Butcher block. No, not the fave laminate choice of the 70’s, but real 2″ thick solid wood butcher block. Beautiful. Upkeep is real, with daily disinfecting required, but not impossible.
  • Tile. Tile has two problems: grout lines and a dated look. Two ways of mitigating grout lines are to use larger tile or to use a smaller grout space. Two advantages of tile are that it is economical when compared to quartz or granite, and the possibilities for a truly custom look are high. Spending the extra to create a pattern using different size tiles and custom inserts such as metal or glass tiles can yield tremendous results.

Next:  Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical


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Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010
sereno kitchen

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I:  Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

Perhaps you have been with the same kitchen for fifteen years. Maybe you bought a new house and it was a good deal because the kitchen desperately needs updating. How do you get started?

The first thing to consider is budget. Standard kitchen remodels begin around $25,000 to $40,000. It is very easy to spend far more and it takes a lot of manuevering to save much. We will touch on ideas for those who want to spend a lot less than $25,000 in another article. Here we will assume that you have at least this much in the budget. So let’s get started!

Integrating into your lifestyle

Think about the way you use your kitchen and how it integrates into your lifestyle and the adjoining rooms. Are there some things that have worked well about your current design? What have been some problems? Are there changes to your lifstyle that a remodel could facilitate? Identify the things that you want to accomplish. You may need a larger food prep area or a place for a second person to prepare drinks or appetizers while the main cook has control of the kitchen. Perhaps you need an area that can be used as a serving buffet. You may want an eating bar, a pantry with roll out shelves, an appliance garage, an island with sink, roll out dishwasher shelves, or a convection oven/combo microwave. Maybe you just want new cabinets, countertops, and flooring for an updated look with only small design changes.

Do you have enough space?

Next, consider whether the things you think you may want can fit in the space you have, or if knocking out a wall is an option. You will want to be working with the recommended remodeling contractor who will do the work before you go too far. Those who install, may see things that those who do not don’t. Most contractors have also benefited by the suggestions of their cabinet supplier or a designer as well. Good design is a process of imagining possibilities and trying to bring the pieces together within the existing or newly created space. It is often a process of compromise that allows the most desired elements to have precedence over less important ideas. Your own priorities shape the kitchen that is best for you. There are also general elements of good design that will be used: balancing storage needs with openness, balancing cabinet sizes on either side of sinks and appliances where possible, use of door styles that fit the homes architecture, use of glass doors or differing depths and heights on uppers as budget allows, and much more. As cabinets are harder to replace than appliances you want to make sure you design for what you really want.

Sweat the little things

As you work with your contractor and/or designer, you will consider things like, what is the narrowest door opening that allows my big pots to fit? Will you have more functional storage with a pantry or will you lose to much counter space? Where do you want a bank of drawers? Do you want top drawers on all your lower cabinets or full height design? Do you want to raise counter height above standard 36 inches? Should you make the kitchen window bigger and design around that? How is the work triangle functioning? Does the location of the sink, range, or refrigerator need to be changed? Do you want space above your upper cabinets or do you like the look of cabinets up to the ceiling? Would you like crown moulding at top?

Selecting cabinet materials

As you define the basic design you will choose a cabinet material: hickory, cherry, oak, alder, or maybe a paint look veneer. You will decide on door design. Make sure you consider the drawer design along with the door design generally shown in a catalog. You will decide on the box construction behind the faceframe. Many great cabinets use a veneer over a furniture chip board and customers are quite satisfied. Others will want plywood construction (APC) but wonder why it costs $800 more. Any cabinets using glass doors use either the hardwood of the doors and faceframe or a hardwood plywood of the same or matching species as it may be seen when doors are closed.

Few people get to the end of a kitchen remodel and wish they had spent less on cabinets. As expensive as everything is, this is still where you want to spend your money.

Next:  Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops


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Creating a Patio Roof

Monday, January 18th, 2010

patio_coverNothing extends the usage of your deck or patio like having a roof overhead. A permanent structure can handle the ravages of winter without having to retract seasonal devices for the next storm. Once in place you will discover the joy of being outside during a gentle rain in any season if it isn’t too windy, and have shelter from summer sun or thundershowers.  What should you consider?

For design options first answer these questions:

  • Is the area you want to cover adjacent to the house?
  • Is your house single story?
  • If so, does the roof slope rise up from the adjacent house wall, and how steeply, or is there a gable end wall?
  • Do you have a two story wall next to your patio?

What these questions are designed to determine is whether or not you can attach your new patio roof to your house or whether it needs to be free standing, and what the best design is. If you have a…

Gable end. You may be able to extend a gable end roof out over your patio area. If a small gable you are limited to its size and location.  If a large gable you can extend the part of the gable that suits your needs.

Sloped roof. If your single story roof slopes away from your patio area you may be able to tie into your house roof at a point up the roof a bit with a lower pitched “shed roof.”  Here is an example of a real life analysis:

  • You discover the distance from patio to roof above your house wall is 10′ 6″ and the roof pitch is 6 in 12 (6″ rise per 12″ run, or horizontal distance). For outside patio roof support you plan a 4″ x 10″ beam on posts set 12′ out and 8′ high. If you extend your patio roof from house at just over wall, you have a 2 1/2 in 12 pitch–enough for torch down or metal roofing but not composition shingles. By tying in 8′ up the house roof, your patio slope becomes almost 4 in 12, enough for shingles.

Two story wall. You can attach a shed or sometimes a gable roof to your house wall. In this case second story windows shape your design. You want your finished roof surface to be at least 2 1/2 to 3″ below any windows. Roof flashing will tuck under siding and trim.

Low or flat roof. If your house roof is too low or flat to attach a patio roof to you will need a free standing structure. Whether shed or gable style if you overlap your house roof it needs to be enough above the house roof to allow maintenance. Since this creates an open area through which rain can blow, some create a dettachable or hinged section that comes within a few inches of the house roof but can be moved when needed.

Other concerns you might have:

Structure. Structural design needs to be sufficient to support roof load and have adequate shear strength. The first is accomplished by using code approved span charts in sizing lumber to the project. The second is creating resistance to shear or lateral movement. Methods include diagonal block sets in rafters, forming an “X”; large custom made metal “L” and “T” braces where posts meet beams;  and glued plywood sheathing over T & G pine which covers rafters. This last keeps roofing nails from showing through in an exposed rafter design.

A good carpenter/contractor should be able to accomplish a good design, but it can be beyond their skill set, so don’t hesitate to check up on proposals. For instance, an otherwise wonderful professional firm can do excellent aesthetic work but have little background in the structural needs of free standing post and beam supported roof projects, since these amount to a very small percentage of the overall building landscape.

Use recommended professional roof addition builders to create a strong, safe, beautiful, and long lasting patio roof–one that you will enjoy for decades.


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Replacing your Bathroom Sink

Sunday, May 3rd, 2009

kohler_yin_yang_lavatory1As part of any bathroom remodel you will likely replace your bathroom sink and countertop.  You can add an incredible wow factor by doing something special at this focal point.

What choices are available and what is involved in making it happen?

  • First, does your vanity sink cabinet need replacing? Decide whether it needs replacing, refinishing, or is fine the way it is.

What type of countertop do you want?

  • Cultured Marble.  A relatively inexpensive option is a  cultured marble top with built in molded sink. These have the benefit of being able to wipe water directly into the sink without a lip.
  • Cultured Granite.  Also having this feature are the natural or cultured granite or marble tops with undermount sink. These are currently the most popular options.
  • Laminates.  Laminates such as Formica can be the most economical option. It can also look the cheapest. To use a laminate and still create a good look, consider a vibrant color. Some enjoy patterns that mimic granite or marble. The outside edge can be formed in different styles. The longstanding rolled drip edge will likely make your project seem dated. Upgraded looks might include square edge or mitered, with choices of wood or cultured stone inlays. Separate sinks are top mounted.
  • Tile.  Tile options include porcelain, ceramic, glass, metal, and natural stone. Finishes vary from natural, which is porous and stains easily to stain proof glazes. Some tiles have color ranges only within natural stone tones while others represent the rainbow. Size is a crucial design element. Today’s designs contain every size available from tiny mosaic tiles to large 18″ x 18,” and many designs are created by mixing sizes. Top mount sinks are the most common choice with tile. Some will imbed an undermount sink in a mortar bed and finish around the sink with a matching edge tile.

How do I choose a sink?

  • If your sink is undermount you will likely choose from porcelain enameled steel, cast iron, or composite material. The choice range is relatively small, but the design idea is to highlight your countertop and understate the sink.
  • Overmount sinks come in many different styles!

vessel_sink_tilejulien20classic20kitchen20sinksink_runningbarclay-sink-jessicaaa-404design_sink01tempered_glass_basin___sink418px-sink

Changing the sink and countertop:

  • The process begins with disconnecting your plumbing. Drain lines are usually hand tightened plastic and dissemble easily. For water lines turn your water stop valves off, turn faucet valves on to relieve pressure, and then use a wrench to disconnect supply lines. If water continues to flow, your water stop valve has malfunctioned and must be replaced with the house water off.
  • Now you can remove the countertop and sink. If sink is not integrated with the countertop, remove first. If set in plumbers putty or caulking cut with a razor knife and pull off. If undermount, remove clamps with screwdriver. Countertop may be simply set on cabinet and held by weight, or be attached from underneath.

Raised top:

  • An inspiring contemporary design can be made by building a 2 x 4 frame that sits on your cabinet and extends over it. This is trimmed out in wood matching your cabinet, and countertop lays on top. This creates a larger surface area and raises the height by 3 1/2″, adding a dramatic look. You will probably find the height is easier on your back. Small children will still need that stool!

Find Recommended Local Bathroom Remodeling Contractors

Find Recommended Local Bath and Sink Refinishing Specialists


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Health Hazards with Home Remodeling

Friday, May 1st, 2009

gasmaskadv1000Am I endangering my health when I work on my home or have work done? Here are a few check-ins before you begin.

  • Lead paint: Lead Paint was outlawed in the United States for residential use in 1978 but is still used in some commercial applications. If your home might contain lead paint the best protection is keeping it well painted with covering paint layers. If you suspect that you might dislodge lead paint dust through remodeling or preparing a suspect surface for painting, such as in scrapping, you should use a profession painters air respirator mask with appropriate filters. It is possible that occasional lead exposure poses minimal danger for adults as some purport, but any exposure is highly dangerous for children, especially young children. Cases have been reported of children becoming very ill after houses with lead paint were scrapped, in preparation for painting, that were only in the neighborhood and not directly in contact with their play areas.
  • Asbestos: Asbestos is a commonly occurring rock that lies around in some people’s yards! The danger is not in touching it, but when its fibers become airborne. Similar to measures for lead paint, maintaining paint layers which cover it has traditionally been considered more than adequate protection. Some experts disagree. The real problem comes when some material containing asbestos must be disturbed or removed. Most states have specific laws regarding removal of asbestos. Some allow construction workers and homeowners to remove small amounts, while other states require a specially licensed contractor to remove any amount. If you do remove any the professional respirator mask is a must.
  • VOCs: The most immediate construction exposure to Volatile Organic Compounds is in the application of paints, varnishes, and glues. Read the labels on your products. Some greener choices are sometimes available with lower VOC content. Other construction materials also “offgas” potentially harmful gases. The formaldehyde released in OSB and Exterior grade plywood releases very slowly because of the form used. Ironically many interior plywoods and panels use more volatile forms. Not all carpet is equally safe so do your homework. Certified low VOC content carpet can give you some peace of mind.

In general, plan out your project so that the exposure of yourself and family are minimized. Construction areas can be sealed off with plastic and dust kept at a minimum through consistent cleaning. Painting and staining are ideally done on days when ventilation can be maximized. Construction sites are inherently dangerous for small children anyhow and they should be kept safe. A little common sense and taking time to do it right can make your project safe.

Find Recommended Local Asbestos, Lead Paint & Other Hazardous Materials Specialists


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Remodeling Tips

By Doug
Saturday, April 18th, 2009

remodelWhether you are preparing to sell, have just purchased a house, or you are just tired of some of your home’s features… you may be a candidate for some degree of remodeling. In today’s economy it is a very serious commitment to start into any major remodel project, whether you do it yourself or hire a contractor. I will outline some basic considerations that you should include in this process.

Before You Begin Any Work:

  • Plan. One pitfall for many remodelers is to bite off too large of a project. It is important to pace yourself and approach this time more like a marathon than a 100 metre dash. It is very easy to get started on one project (one room) and before finishing that project, you get side-tracked on another remodel in another part of the house. A big part of planning is to be realistic about the time commitment and the inconvenience. Most of us underestimate the time needed to do the work (this is not just a malady of the DIY folks…just think about how many contracted projects drag on past their projected completion date). Another part of the planning stage is to organize your ideas, your likes and dislikes about the space, and develop a master plan for the entire project so that you can put it on a timeline, in doable portions.
  • Design. You need to ask yourself what you want the space to look like when the job is done. Each room could be a different theme expressing cultural, foreign or modern ideas. Your whole house could be one theme and each room add something unique to that theme. There are lots of pictures on the internet, at the library and in design books that can get your creative juices flowing. Don’t just settle for the ordinary if you really want to express more of who you are in your remodeling designs.
  • Calculate. All remodeling costs money! If you want to stay within your budget, you need to do your homework in advance, by understanding all of the costs involved in your project and then add about 20% more for the unseen things that catch us off guard. Remodeling can be very stressful, but adequate preparation can lighten that load considerably. Also, focusing on smaller portions of your master plan, makes it easier to be more accurate in your financial planning for that portion.

Degrees of Remodeling:

  • Basic Makeover. You have likely seen the TV shows in which a crew of highly trained, highly paid pros spend a few hours and quite a bit of money to completely transform a house. If that crew is unlikely to show up at your place, then there are some very basic things that can be done to bring a substantial change in appearance and value of your home. Flooring is a good place to start. You can make a pretty dramatic change in any room by replacing worn-out carpet or laminates with tile or real hardwood flooring. There are lots of products to choose from and kits to help you with installation. Choose materials that match the amount of foot traffic in those areas as well. Lighting is another easy fix. New light fixtures can change the mood and can accent other features in the room. Painting or changing old wallpaper is another relatively inexpensive makeover that provides a lot of bang for the buck.
  • Kitchen. This can be as basic as changing cabinet doors and paint, or as complicated as tearing everything out and redesigning and rebuilding the whole kitchen. This is the room in which food is prepared, food is consumed and stored, and where cookware and dishes are cleaned and stored. The three basic functions: storage, food prep and cleanup all need to be considered in your plans and design. The traditional “work triangle” should anchor your plan, with sink, refrigerator and stove placed for ease of access. There never seems to be enough storage or counter space, so try to be as generous with these as your overall space can provide. Room functionality, convenience and ease of movement are priorities.
  • Bathroom. Your first question should be, “What do we need?” Think through the daily habits of each family member who will use this bathroom, and build your design around that need. The actual square footage of the room will determine how flexible your design can be. Develop a floor plan that is very functional for your needs and for the size of the space. There is software available that scales each fixture to your room size and lets you move things around (within the reasonable limits of plumbing connections) until you find a plan that suits your needs.

There are lots of other rooms you could remodel, but I touched on kitchens and baths because they tend to add value and function to your home. Don’t be afraid to try a small remodel project (install storage units in a closet) to see if it is something you want to tackle on a larger scale, or if your best approach is to find a reputable contractor who can bring your plans into reality. Happy Remodeling!

Find Quality Local Home Remodeling Contractors


Doug on HelpHive

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