After I bought my home, I discovered (during the installation of a new window) that there was absolutely no insulation in the outside walls. Fortunately, the local utility company had a great rebate plan to help pay for having insulation blown into the walls. Insulation provides comfort in both cold and hot weather, and is a very important factor in our energy consumption. If your home feels cold in winter, upgrading your insulation may provide some creature comfort for a relatively small investment of time and money. The whole idea of insulating a home is to reduce the transfer of heat into your home in hot weather and out of your home in cold weather. I will discuss several factors to consider as you approach this project.

• What is “R” Value? The “R” stands for heat resistance, which means that the higher the number (ie. R-30 vs. R-20) the higher the resistance, or the better insulating capability. In different parts of the country, the local building codes will specify differing minimum requirements for insulation in walls and ceilings. It is important to remember that these are minimums, and you may want to exceed the minimums to achieve a higher level of energy efficiency. If you double your R-value, you cut your heat loss in half. These values also accumulate: adding R-20 to existing R-10 will result in a total value of R-30. There is an insulation calculator based upon your Zipcode at the US Department of Energy.
• What Are the Insulation Materials? There are a few materials that have been used for many years and have proven their ability to curb heat loss. Fiberglass is the most common and is actually spun from melted glass and usually comes in a pink or yellow color. Rock Wool is spun from melted rock and is brown or gray. Slag Wool is spun from melted slag (steel mill residue). Cellulose is made from shredded newspaper and cardboard and is teated to make it fire and insect resistant. Other materials include plastic fibre from recycled milk bottles, polyurethane, polystyrene, natural fibres (wool, hemp, flax, cotton) and straw.
• What are the Types of Insulation? Rigid Board Insulation, sometimes called foam board is used in confined spaces where it can be cut to fit. Board Insulation is made of fibreglass, polystyrene or polyurethane and can be used below grade when weatherproofed, or inside the house when covered with drywall. Batts or Blankets are pre-cut to a width to match the distance between wall studs or ceiling and floor joists. It comes either “faced” (paper or foil on one side as a vapour barrier) or “unfaced”. They are usually made of fibreglass. Loose-Fill Insulation is usually blown into attic spaces or exterior walls and is made of fibreglass, rock wool, cellulose or other fibres. Spray Foam insulation comes pressurized and it expands quite dramatically when it is exposed to air. It can be applied commercially or in a small can the size of a can of spray paint. It is ideal for filling gaps and holes that are spots for heat loss. Radiant Barrier Insulation is a reflective membrane that is used to reflect heat away in hot climate, and attract heat in cold climate. This is usually placed in the attic or can be installed on a roof.
• What Needs to be Insulated? Attics, basements, crawl spaces, roofs, foundations and exterior walls…all need to be insulated. Other places to include are windows (double or triple pane or storm windows), pipes (especially wrapping hot water pipes exposed to cold spaces), electrical outlets on exterior walls (foam plates can be placed behind the plastic cover plate), doors, attic access panel, fireplaces and chimneys (close damper when not in use), and the ductwork bringing heated air into your rooms.
• How Do I Do It? I learned quickly just how much a bale of fibreglass batts expands when opened (500-1000%) when I recently insulated my attic with R-38 batts (expands to about 12″ each batt). So you need space before you open the bale. Batts are relatively easy to handle, and are often pre-cut into 4′ sections. If you are going to blow loose insulation into walls or attic spaces, you will need to rent a blower and have a partner outside to keep the hopper filled while you’re doing the installing (or better yet.. you fill the hopper). Pipe insulation comes in long tubes that are split so you can cover existing pipes. Wall insulation (new construction) should be stapled to the studs to keep it from sagging inside the finished wall. Always wear protective equipment (gloves, long-sleeved shirt, goggles, face mask) as insulating materials can be very abrasive to skin and lungs.

Insulating can be a tedious job, and it does not add to the beauty of your home as far as getting compliments from others, but it can make your home a much more comfortable place to live.

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Tags: attics, batts and blankets, cellulose, crawl spaces, fibreglass, insulation, loose fill, natural fibre insulation, pipe insulation, R-value, radiant barrier, rigid board, rock wool, slag wool, spray foam, US Department of Energy