The greatest protection against problems with your lawn is to ensure strong, healthy growth. We will briefly discuss the basics of keeping your lawn looking good and remaining healthy.
Fertilize
- A well-balanced fertilizer program is one of the most important factors in maintaining an attractive, healthy lawn.
- The three main nutrients required by lawns are: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).
- Nitrogen promotes a dark green coloration, leaf and blade development and turf density.
- Phosphorous helps develop strong roots and promotes plant maturity.
- Potassium adds vigour and promotes wear (durability), drought tolerance and winter hardiness.
- A general rule of thumb for ratios of these three nutrients is 4-1-2, or a fertilizer that lists the N-P-K ratio as 20-5-10.
- At least one half of the fertilizer should be applied in the Fall, split between mid-August to mid-September and late October to early November.
- The Spring application is best done in early June.
Water
- When normal rainfall does not provide enough moisture during the growing season, grass goes dormant and starts to turn brown.
- Water your lawn in the early morning to encourage deep root growth.
- Excessive watering, especially in the evening can promote disease such as fingi that needs several hours of leaf wetness to grow.
Mow
- Mowing has a major influence on turf density, uniformity and attractiveness of a lawn.
- Turf can be mowed often as long as no more than one-third of the grass blade is removed in a single mowing. Cutting more reduces the ability of grass to re-grow and makes it vulnerable to injury or disease.
- Use a sharp mower blade (replace as needed) because a dull cutting blade leaves ragged “wounds” that allow infection. It is also best to cut grass when it is dry to get a cleaner cut.
- Some clippings can remain on the lawn because they add to the nutrients and water. Excessive clippings should be removed to reduce thatch buildup.
Rake
- Thatch is a layer of organic matter made up of decaying grass leaves, stems and roots that builds up between the lawn and soil surfaces. It harbors insects and disease and restricts deep root growth.
- Remove thatch by raking or de-thatching (aerator) if it exceeds one inch in depth.
- An aerator or coring machine (available from most rental companies) has hollow steel tines or tubes that remove soil cores to allow air to get into the soil and root system.
Overseed
- If you have problem areas (bare spots) apply extra seed (like perennial ryegrass) that germinates rapidly and establishes itself quickly. Seed at a rate double the normal recommended seeding.
- It is a good practise to cover the area to be seeded with compost, peat moss or top-soil to create a vigorous growth environment.
Selecting Grass Seed
- Most lawn seed is made up of a blend of several turfgrasses. The most common are Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescues, perennial ryegrass and creeping bentgrass.
- One way to combat the damage of leaf-eating insects is to plant grasses that contain endophytes (fungi that grow inside the plant and make it taste bitter to insects).
- Endophytes are found in perennial ryegrass, tall fescue and fine fescue.
- Consult your local garden center or seed supplier about which grasses they sell with endophytes.
Enjoy the beauty of your well maintained lawn!
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