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Indoor House Plant Care

By Mary Kay Swanson

March 3rd, 2010

How to care for your houseplants and your “indoor garden”

Midwinter can be a tough time for us avid gardeners, there isn’t much to do in the garden and the seed catalogs are just starting to come in to inspire our Spring dreams of vegetable gardens and new planting beds, so what’s a green thumb to do this time of year?

Give those houseplants some love and attention!

Watering in the winter: The amount of water needed in the winter will depend on how high the humidity is in your house and how warm you keep your indoor temperatures. Since most all your plants are usually near windows the relative humidity and temperature may be less then in the middle of the room so a good rule of thumb is too water less frequently but to monitor the soil moistness so you can establish a good watering schedule. The best way to do this is to stick your finger into the soil and if it is very dry over an inch down it is time to water.

Succulents and Cactus need to be watered even less in the winter and since their medium is usually more of a mix of small gravel and perlite than soil it can be harder to use the finger test so use the look at feel of their leaves to determine when they need water. The plumpness of a succulent or cactus is caused by Tuger pressure in the cells of the plant and if the plant needs water the leaves will be less plump and look a little soft and wrinkled - when they start to look like that then it is time to water.

Humidity: Proper Humidity levels are essential and is the key to keeping houseplants happy and with our heaters going in the winter indoor humidity can be a problem. Misting your plants as much as every other day if it is very dry in your house can be very helpful to your plants overall health and vigor and can even add the little extra humidity we humans need to keep our nasal passages from getting too dry and irritated in the winter. Another way to increase humidity is to place your plants on a humidity tray which is basically a saucer filled with gravel or decorative stones that you fill with water. The evaporation from the tray or saucer will provide extra humidity to the air around the plants and the home in general. Having one of those outdoor/indoor weather stations can be very helpful in determining the general humidityof your home as it will give you a reading of both the indoor and outdoor temperatures and humidity levels. Around 50% humidity is the best for inside your house not just for your plants but for you and your pets too. High humidity levels can cause molds and mildew to form and also create diseases in your houseplants which can then aggravate mildew growth and your nasal passages, so getting a good reading and adjusting accordingly can be a great enhancer to all the living things in your home.

Light: In general East and West facing windows are best for houseplants. Most all house plants want bright but not direct light – if you seen sunburn marks on your leaves adjust the plant so it is not in the direct sunlight. Succulents, Cactus and plants with tropical origins need as much as 12 hours of daylight, which can be difficult to come by in our dark PNW winters, so add a supplemental light source on a timer for these plants. Full spectrum bulbs that mimic the spectrum of the sun’s light can be easily purchased and may even help your own moods feel better in the middle of winter. Besides a nice, easy to look at light, shining down on all your healthy green plants is enough to make anyone feel a little better in January!

Fertilizer: It is best to forgo the fertilizer in the winter months as even your houseplants have a light “dormancy” period that is healthy for them to go through in the winter. As the temperatures warm up come Spring and you maybe start to open a window or two your houseplants will come out of their dormancy and this is a great time to fertilize. A water soluble fertilizer mixed at 1/4th strength is a good choice and can be used each time you water.

Pests: Check your plants often for signs of pests as dealing with a possible infestation right away is the best way to manage an outbreak. Wiping off foliage with a damp cloth both removes dust and can increase humidity. The most common indoor house plant pests are white fly, aphids and spider mites. If you find them immediatly wipe the leaves witha wet cloth and spray with Neemoil or another organic pest control. Using a drop cloth under the plant you spray will help keep the floor or furniture from getting the spray on it.

Indoor Plant trouble signs to watch for and their causes:

Sudden defoliation: Happens with too drastic a change in environment. Example; plants that get a draft from a door opening to the outside regularly or that are too near a heat source.
Lower leaves turn yellow and drop: Over watering.
Bleached spots on leaves: sunburn – too much light or artificial lights are too close.
Lanky new growth: Not enough light and/or too much fertilizing.
Does not flower if supposed to: Not enough light.
Leaf tips brown: Too cold, not enough humidity, lack of proper watering. (watering too much and then too little)
Wilt: Can be either too much water and the roots are rotting or not enough water…..you will know which by your watering habits.
Leaf margins brown: Over fertilizing and/or too low humidity.

Quick cures for sad plants: If your doing everything right and your plant still seems sad then try top dressing the soil with 1-2 inches of humus which will provide needed nutrients, help with moisture retention and boost overall health. Use a bagged material from your local garden store so as not to import any diseases or pests…..DONT use the compost for your out door garden or any other out door soil.

Transplanting: If all else fails and your plant has been in the same pot for years it may be time to re pot. This can and actually should be done indoors so as not to shock your plant witha drastic temperature change. L:aying down a big drop cloth will make for an easy clean up…..it’s also a nice project for relieving that winter garden fever!

Use a sharp tool to loosen the soil around the edges of the pot.
Gently remove the plant and prune off any dead or damaged roots that you can see. Don’t break up the root ball to find dead roots though, try to keep the root ball as intact as possible.
Have a new pot ready that is around 1-2 inches in diameter larger than your former pot and add some drainage rocks to the bottom of the pot.
Add enough soil - lightly tamped down – to the bottom of the pot so that the crown of your plants root ball will rest about an inch below the top of your new pot – gently add soil to fill in around the root ball and lightly tamp down.
Gently water all the surface of the soil with lukewarmwater until it starts to run out of the bottom of the pot – you want to water enough to help settle the new soil against the root ball and not have any air pockets remain. (I do this in my bathtub to reduce the mess and keep my drop cloth dry) top dress with a little more soil if needed so the crown of the root ball is not sticking up from the soil – but don’t smother it – too deep and it will rot, too shallow and it will dry out.
Place the newly potted plant in a low light area for a week or so to give it a chance to readjust before putting it back in its regular location.

Enjoy the glory of your indoor “garden” !! Some professional landscape companies have indoor plant divisions and most highly-rated professional gardeners have a good knowledge base about how to get the most out of your indoor plants if you need help with diagnosing problems or transplanting.

Box of Rain Landscape on HelpHive

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Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting and Electrical

February 23rd, 2010

Ugly Old Fluorescent

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I: Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

If you have decided to remodel your kitchen and have the costs in front of you, you are likely dealing with some sticker shock. While it is easy to get carried away, it is just as easy to make critical mistakes in the name of saving money. Now is the time to remodel your lighting and electrical receptacles.

Take time to think through where you need more light for workspaces and consider accent lighting. Adding receptacles, or changing their locations, and making sure their circuits can carry the load makes good sense.

Where are the wires going to go?

Some wiring runs can be exposed behind torn out cabinets making some changes easy. There is usually some drywall work needed somewhere though, and this means it can pay to open up a path in your ceiling or wall if needed to bring in more lighting or receptacles.

Pendants and Recessed

Getting light where it’s needed

You want good overall general brightness and you want to eliminate any shadows in workspaces. This may be best accomplished with a combination of overhead lighting and under cabinet fluorescents. Depending on the kitchen design style some will prefer to accomplish all with recessed lights.

Accent Lighting

Accent lights can add drama to your kitchen. These can be recessed mini-cans, pointable lights, or pendants. Usually the light is tightly focused rather than broadly scattered. You may want to use a pair of spots over an eating bar, or showcase a high end range. They can function as the lights you leave on when you want low light and they can add to the general lighting for task areas. Some create a nice look with over cabinet rope lighting or fluorescents.

Don’t Skimp on Receptacles

Most kitchens don’t have enough receptacles or placement is not well thought out, or just doesn’t match the layout of your small appliances.When adding receptacles your contractor should make sure that planned load does not exceed the capacity of circuits used. Sometimes you need to bring in extra circuits from the main panel. Assuming load requirements can be met single duplex receptacles might be doubled up for convenience. Still additional locations are often needed. Make sure over stove microwaves, garbage disposals and dishwashers have grounded receptacles and are not hard wired. This will make for easier future service. You may want a receptacle above your upper cabinets for adding holiday and party lighting.

Make sure you hire a recommended, licensed electrician. We have come across a lot of improper wiring through the years and the people have been very fortunate disaster didn’t occur. The money you spend now on lighting and electrical receptacles will add immensely to your overall remodeling effort and the cost during a remodel can save a lot over making it a separate project.

Posted in Electrical, Remodels & Additions | 2 Comments »

Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops

February 16th, 2010

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I: Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

New or refurbished cabinets are admittedly the most noticeable part of a kitchen remodel. New countertops though, often hold second place, competing with appliances and flooring for the spot. Replacing cabinets without new countertops often gives an unfinished look.

How do you decide what best fits your kitchen design and lifestyle? How can you prioritize your spending? Countertops perform two functions: utility and art. Ease of upkeep and how they assist daily tasks on one hand and at times stunning beauty on the other. Countertops are both basic function and an element of style that work with the layout, cabinets, floors, faucets, lighting, appliances, and paint.

Sometimes the main need in a kitchen remodel is the countertops. Cabinets and appliances may be of high quality and in great shape. Perhaps the countertop has been damaged or is a dated look that doesn’t fit overall design goals. Much more often countertops are replaced as part of a larger project involving other major items such as cabinets and any decisions are linked to the overall budget of the entire project. Since many countertop choices are relatively expensive establishing a budget range early is helpful. Soon you’ll want to check with some local countertop experts.

Quartz and Granite

Contemporary styled and more expensive kitchens commonly have very nice cabinetry and expensive appliances. In keeping with that look and that budget level the current popular match is a quartz or granite countertop. By these we mean manufactured products. The quartz product is 93-95% ground quartz crystals bound with resin binders and coloring agents. While granite is available in natural cut slabs most “granite” countertops are manufactured with ground granite and resins. These run $65 to $90 per square foot installed. Countertop depth is usually 25 1/2″, not two feet, and both the extra 1 1/2″ and the backsplash are counted. Additionally your edging is priced at $2 to 6 per inch. Yes, inch. While these costs can add up very quickly, it is difficult to think of a nicely done kitchen remodel in this class without a quartz or granite countertop.

Other options:

Solid surface. These are acrylic resin surfaces that run closer to $50 per square foot and may have a standard edge at no additional charge. A client of mine, who wanted to investigate this option to save a few dollars said, “It looks plastic-y.” Still in the right application it can be a “smart look.”
Laminate. The non-romantic description is plastic over particle board. Running around $25 per square foot, and sometimes less, the extra 1 1/2″, backsplash and standard edging are all included. Advantages include low cost, durable surface, hundreds of color choices, and even DIY possibilities. To avoid a dated or cheap look take care in selecting a custom edging and inserts such as oak or manufactured quartz. The very best I’ve seen in laminate is the use of natural stone or vibrant colors with tile, oak or quartz backsplash and a custom edge.
Concrete. Poured in place concrete counters run the gamut from parking a sidewalk in your kitchen to polished terrazzo looks. Some have gotten the look they wanted and even saved money. Quality levels and prices are all over the place.
Glass. Solid tempered glass is available for contemporary motifs. Recycled glass is a completely different feel. It often has embedded stones, sometimes metal–even seashells. Design options are divergent.
Stainless. Stainless steel may seem at home only in a commercial kitchen but it is amazing how adaptable it is to differing architectural styles and time periods. Worries of a cold look are easily offset by adventurous paint choices and the vibrant colors of the produce in your kitchen.
Butcher block. No, not the fave laminate choice of the 70’s, but real 2″ thick solid wood butcher block. Beautiful. Upkeep is real, with daily disinfecting required, but not impossible.
Tile. Tile has two problems: grout lines and a dated look. Two ways of mitigating grout lines are to use larger tile or to use a smaller grout space. Two advantages of tile are that it is economical when compared to quartz or granite, and the possibilities for a truly custom look are high. Spending the extra to create a pattern using different size tiles and custom inserts such as metal or glass tiles can yield tremendous results.

Next: Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

Posted in Countertops, Remodels & Additions, Tile & Stone | 2 Comments »

Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start

February 10th, 2010

HelpHive Kitchen Remodeling Series

Part I: Kitchen Remodeling: Where to Start
Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops
Part III: Kitchen Remodeling: Lighting & Electrical

Perhaps you have been with the same kitchen for fifteen years. Maybe you bought a new house and it was a good deal because the kitchen desperately needs updating. How do you get started?

The first thing to consider is budget. Standard kitchen remodels begin around $25,000 to $40,000. It is very easy to spend far more and it takes a lot of manuevering to save much. We will touch on ideas for those who want to spend a lot less than $25,000 in another article. Here we will assume that you have at least this much in the budget. So let’s get started!

Integrating into your lifestyle

Think about the way you use your kitchen and how it integrates into your lifestyle and the adjoining rooms. Are there some things that have worked well about your current design? What have been some problems? Are there changes to your lifstyle that a remodel could facilitate? Identify the things that you want to accomplish. You may need a larger food prep area or a place for a second person to prepare drinks or appetizers while the main cook has control of the kitchen. Perhaps you need an area that can be used as a serving buffet. You may want an eating bar, a pantry with roll out shelves, an appliance garage, an island with sink, roll out dishwasher shelves, or a convection oven/combo microwave. Maybe you just want new cabinets, countertops, and flooring for an updated look with only small design changes.

Do you have enough space?

Next, consider whether the things you think you may want can fit in the space you have, or if knocking out a wall is an option. You will want to be working with the recommended remodeling contractor who will do the work before you go too far. Those who install, may see things that those who do not don’t. Most contractors have also benefited by the suggestions of their cabinet supplier or a designer as well. Good design is a process of imagining possibilities and trying to bring the pieces together within the existing or newly created space. It is often a process of compromise that allows the most desired elements to have precedence over less important ideas. Your own priorities shape the kitchen that is best for you. There are also general elements of good design that will be used: balancing storage needs with openness, balancing cabinet sizes on either side of sinks and appliances where possible, use of door styles that fit the homes architecture, use of glass doors or differing depths and heights on uppers as budget allows, and much more. As cabinets are harder to replace than appliances you want to make sure you design for what you really want.

Sweat the little things

As you work with your contractor and/or designer, you will consider things like, what is the narrowest door opening that allows my big pots to fit? Will you have more functional storage with a pantry or will you lose to much counter space? Where do you want a bank of drawers? Do you want top drawers on all your lower cabinets or full height design? Do you want to raise counter height above standard 36 inches? Should you make the kitchen window bigger and design around that? How is the work triangle functioning? Does the location of the sink, range, or refrigerator need to be changed? Do you want space above your upper cabinets or do you like the look of cabinets up to the ceiling? Would you like crown moulding at top?

Selecting cabinet materials

As you define the basic design you will choose a cabinet material: hickory, cherry, oak, alder, or maybe a paint look veneer. You will decide on door design. Make sure you consider the drawer design along with the door design generally shown in a catalog. You will decide on the box construction behind the faceframe. Many great cabinets use a veneer over a furniture chip board and customers are quite satisfied. Others will want plywood construction (APC) but wonder why it costs $800 more. Any cabinets using glass doors use either the hardwood of the doors and faceframe or a hardwood plywood of the same or matching species as it may be seen when doors are closed.

Few people get to the end of a kitchen remodel and wish they had spent less on cabinets. As expensive as everything is, this is still where you want to spend your money.

Next: Part II: Kitchen Remodeling: New Countertops

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Posted in Cabinets & Carpentry, Remodels & Additions | 2 Comments »

Great School Lunch Ideas and More

By Daniele Ott

February 3rd, 2010

lunchbag-text-400x507

Do you ever get bored with packing lunches? I know I do. Here are some cool ideas I’ve tried and recently discovered to simplify lunch making and add a little flair to the contents of the plain brown bag. Enjoy!

1. Make lunches the night before. Mornings tend to be rushed for everyone. Have lunches in the fridge with your children’s names on the bags, or in their lunch boxes, so they can grab them and go. The same goes for backpacks and sports bags. Make sure they are loaded the night before with all return homework, sports equipment for practice, signed papers, and all books. Put them in front of the door. This will put an end to morning chaos.

2. When you go shopping and get bulk items or snack items, sit down and pack them in zip-loc bags or reusable containers for the whole week. For example, cut up all the fresh veggies and make variety packs. Stick them in a container and they are ready to go. Do the same with chips, crackers, cookies, etc. Another fun healthy snack you can pack up ahead is trail mix. Have your kids pick out the things they like and help make up the mix themselves. Make it a Sunday night routine and making lunches will be a breeze.

3. Think food groups. Together with your kids, make a chart with four columns and the headings: Sandwiches, Fruits/Veggies, Snacks, and Desserts. Have children fill in each column with items of their own choosing. Each day, pack one item form each group. Remind them that the food they will be eating, they chose themselves.

4. Have younger children cut meats and cheeses with cookie cutters into fun shapes. Make little cracker sandwiches with them. The perfect finger food. You can also use bigger cookie cutters to cut out sandwiches.

5. This non-food lunch idea is my kid’s favorite! Periodically, put a note of encouragement in their lunch. If you know they have a test, are going through a rough time, or just to say I love you! Other fun non-food items could be a holiday pencil, a coupon for an ice cream cone, a $5 gift card, or a surprise note saying they get to have a friend over for a play-date or overnighter (that you have secretly pre-arranged). It doesn’t matter how old your child is, they will LOVE this!

6. If you have friends who love to make lunches, pick their brains for ideas. Try planning time once a week to make lunches together. Make some casseroles or soups and freeze them in microwaveable dishes to heat up at school, for a nice hot lunch. Throw in some healthy bread and fruit, and you have a perfect meal.

7. Don’t forget water bottles. I bought all of my kids, sturdy water bottles in their favorite colors, that they take to school every day. Juice boxes get expensive and many are full of sugar. The rule of thumb is to drink half of our body weight in ounces of water each day! So if you weigh 150 lbs. you should be drinking at least 75 oz. of water. If you play sports you should be drinking an extra 16 oz. for each hour of activity. When we get dehydrated we get tired and we don’t think as clearly.

8. Don’t let your family skip breakfast. If you don’t have time to sit down for breakfast, grab a protein bar or fill a thermos with milk and add a protein breakfast powder. Make some fruit smoothie or orange juice popsicles. Experiment with healthy breakfast cookies or have a bowl of hard boiled eggs ready to grab. Breakfast kick starts your metabolism and will help your kids concentrate at school.

9. If your kids have after school activities pack them an extra snack to sustain their energy until dinner time. Try peanuts and raisins or cheese and apple slices. Here’s a yummy snack recipe that is full of protein and a treat the kids will love!

Great Protein Snack

Peanut Butter Power Balls

1 cup peanut butter
1/2 cup non-fat dry milk powder or soy protein powder
1/2 cup raisins or chocolate chips
1/4 cup honey
Graham cracker crumbs

Mix all ingredients except the graham cracker crumbs in a large bowl. Shape mixture into 1-inch balls. Roll in crumbs and refrigerate (or freeze; balls will thaw by lunchtime).

Remember to be creative, include your kids in the process and try and have fun!!

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Pruning and topping your trees

January 29th, 2010

pruning2 If you are fortunate enough to have a small forest of trees in your yard you might wonder how you can contain them. Trees can be both a very beautiful part of a landscape and very effective at blocking out much desired sun. How should you go about altering them or simply maintaining them? In most cases what is best for the tree is best for the homeowner. Sometimes the needs of man and nature collide. Here are some basic principals:

The best pruning is ongoing, throughout the life of the tree. It is great fun to plant a small tree and live at that location long enough to see it grow into a big one. By selective thinning you can pick which branches to keep and by removing others channel plant energy into remaining ones.
Ongoing pruning can control tree size, stimulate healthy flower and fruit growth, and shape the tree into traditional or unique forms.
If you are on the early side of landscaping and planning, select tree sizes based upon their mature size. Trees planted too close to a house rarely seem so when planted from a 2 or 5 gallon container.

Pruning Tips

Branches 1″ or less are cut with hand or long handles pruning shears with a single cut next to the base of the tree. Remove dead and unwanted branches, and some of those that are grouped too close together.
Larger branches are cut by hand or chainsaw by first under cutting as much as 1/3 of the branch, about 2″ out from desired cut line. Make a second cut from the top down just outside your first undercut. Then cut from top down at planned location. This helps prevent bark splitting.
When branches split or bark is pealed apply tree salve. Sometimes a wrapping is necessary.

What if I want to top my trees?

Tree topping is hard on trees. Tree topping can help bring light into your property, but severe topping weakens trees, making them more vulnerable to insects and disease. Topping is a reasonable choice if you are open to losing the tree if the tree doesn’t react well to the pruning. Some trees do survive and even thrive after a topping but you have to assume the risk of losing the tree.
Consider instead how limbing lower dead and insignificant branches can help bring in low angled winter light and general thinning throughout might bring in pinpoints of light.
You may benefit from removing some of your trees to bring in light or a betterview of your house from the street. Emotionally it is hard to let go of a full grown tree. Sometimes it opens up a whole new world for your yard and home.

Trees do not look as tall as they really are from the ground. What seems like a simple task in pruning and branch removal can be a colossal chore and may be beyond the scope of work a homeowner can safely do. Consider the advice and services of a recommended tree professional (arborist) for any projects above head height and of any substantial scope.

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Rose pruning season starts on Valentine’s Day

By Mary Kay Swanson

January 21st, 2010

Rose pruning season is almost upon us so here are some hints to get your roses in the best shape for beautiful summer blooms.

When to Prune Roses

Traditionally the dormant season rose pruning is started around Valentine’s Day and continues through May in the PNW. One rule of thumb I use is to prune when the daffodils start blooming because then you know that the soil temperatures have reached the point to initiate bud growth.

How to Prune Roses

The Right tools. Use CLEAN sharp pruners for the cuts made to canes and clean sharp loppers or a small pruning saw to remove any and all dead or old, unproductive canes. You don’t want ragged cuts since you will be pruning close to new buds so make sure your tools are sharp. Using clean tools is also important so as not to transfer any disease or microbes to the roses from other plants you may have previously been using your pruners on. Dipping your pruners, loppers and saw into a bleach and water solution or wiping them clean with rubbing alcohol will kill off transferable diseases. If you have had problems with black spot or powdery mildew remove any leaves that have stayed on through the winter. Also clean up any dead leaves from the ground under the plant and put them in your clean green container to get them off the property rather than compost them if you do back yard composting. Then be sure to re-dip or wipe your tools between pruning each plant to reduce the chances of infecting a healthy plant.

The Right cut. No matter the kind of rose the right cut is essential for a healthy bud and future flower. To start you should not prune your roses in the fall as the flowers start to die and the rose produces hips (those red to orange seed large seed pods that develop on some roses after blooming) Research has shown that removing the hips and pruning too early makes you plant more susceptible to disease and winter die back and that the hips produce a type of “anti-freeze” for the plant so it is better able to withstand cold winters with less die back and bud loss. So leave them alone through the winter for best results and healthier plants. When it is time to prune follow the guidelines below for the type of roses you will be pruning and remember to always cut to approximatley a quarter inch from only outward facing buds on any pruning cut – you do not want to encourage inward growth to the center of the plant. A rule of thumb to help guide you to the right size of open shaped plant is to have enough open space on the interior of the plant that you could set a basket ball down inside the plant and the basketball would be held foot or so off the ground. Also be sure not to cut to close, or to far, from the bud you are cutting to – too close and it may die back into the bud, too far and you may be left with a stub that will be susceptible to disease and allows as easy entry for systemic problems.

Different Rose, Different Pruning Approaches

Hybrid Tea Roses. These are the type of roses that produce the large flowers and usually one per stem. These roses you want to prune according to the size of the canes (stems or ’branches’) you have available. A small cane approximately the size of a pencil should be pruned back to four to six inches from the graft – which is at the bottom of the plant and identified by a swelling at the base of the canes. (this is where the rose was budded onto a root stock). Medium canes around the size of your forefinger should be pruned down to about eight to twelve inches from the graft. Larger canes that are thumb sized or larger should be pruned at around two feet from the graft. If you don’t see any buds to cut to on a large cane just cut back as far as you can to the lowest visible union – this is where a bud will come from as the season progresses. The desired effect is to limit your plant to four or five of the healthiest and newest canes so that you have an open, vase shaped plant with lots of room for air circulation and space for the flowers to bloom and not be touching each other.

Floribunda and Polyanthus Roses. These are the types of roses that produce lots of flowers per stem. These are easy to prune, simply head the canes back to an outward facing bud about twelve to eighteen inches from the graft while also removing old canes and leaving an open center and space between the canes

Climbing Roses. These are usually the most confusing of all roses when it comes to pruning because of the mass of the plant climbing over your trellis or wall, but they actually pretty easy to prune. Limit the canes to about four or six healthy, young green canne and remove the surplus. These canes are your structure for the plant and so you only need to cut the main canes to fit the surface you are growing the plant on. Don’t cut as severely as you do with the other types, because a climbing rose produces canes one year and they do not flower until the second year. So if you cut it back severely, there will be no flowers until the next season. The growth that develops off the main canes should be cut back to a second or third growth bud, usually making it only about two or three inches long. You want the new flower buds to be close to the main canes with buds on as many available offshoots as possible for that full gorgeous look.

After Spring Pruning

Add compost. Once your pruning is finished add a half inch of compost around the plants base – DO NOT pile the compost up against the main stem (graft) that comes out of the soil – in the wet PNW this will cause rot at the base of the plant. Leave about an inch of space of just bare soil close to the main stem and spread the compost to about two feet in circumference around the plant. The compost will work it’s way into the soil and is there to feed the feeder roots that are just under the top layer of soil. Don’t fertilize yet as this may promote early growth that could be damaged in a surprise frost or cold snap.
Summer Pruning. As your roses bloom you will need to do some summer pruning called ‘deadheading’ to encourage more blooms and we will discuss these methods in a future post.

Rose pruning can be daunting since there are some rules to follow that don’t apply to most garden pruning and a recommended professional gardener can be a real help for having this early Spring chore done quickly and correctly.

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Creating a Patio Roof

January 18th, 2010

Nothing extends the usage of your deck or patio like having a roof overhead. A permanent structure can handle the ravages of winter without having to retract seasonal devices for the next storm. Once in place you will discover the joy of being outside during a gentle rain in any season if it isn’t too windy, and have shelter from summer sun or thundershowers. What should you consider?

For design options first answer these questions:

Is the area you want to cover adjacent to the house?
Is your house single story?
If so, does the roof slope rise up from the adjacent house wall, and how steeply, or is there a gable end wall?
Do you have a two story wall next to your patio?

What these questions are designed to determine is whether or not you can attach your new patio roof to your house or whether it needs to be free standing, and what the best design is. If you have a…

Gable end. You may be able to extend a gable end roof out over your patio area. If a small gable you are limited to its size and location. If a large gable you can extend the part of the gable that suits your needs.

Sloped roof. If your single story roof slopes away from your patio area you may be able to tie into your house roof at a point up the roof a bit with a lower pitched “shed roof.” Here is an example of a real life analysis:

You discover the distance from patio to roof above your house wall is 10′ 6″ and the roof pitch is 6 in 12 (6″ rise per 12″ run, or horizontal distance). For outside patio roof support you plan a 4″ x 10″ beam on posts set 12′ out and 8′ high. If you extend your patio roof from house at just over wall, you have a 2 1/2 in 12 pitch–enough for torch down or metal roofing but not composition shingles. By tying in 8′ up the house roof, your patio slope becomes almost 4 in 12, enough for shingles.

Two story wall. You can attach a shed or sometimes a gable roof to your house wall. In this case second story windows shape your design. You want your finished roof surface to be at least 2 1/2 to 3″ below any windows. Roof flashing will tuck under siding and trim.

Low or flat roof. If your house roof is too low or flat to attach a patio roof to you will need a free standing structure. Whether shed or gable style if you overlap your house roof it needs to be enough above the house roof to allow maintenance. Since this creates an open area through which rain can blow, some create a dettachable or hinged section that comes within a few inches of the house roof but can be moved when needed.

Other concerns you might have:

Structure. Structural design needs to be sufficient to support roof load and have adequate shear strength. The first is accomplished by using code approved span charts in sizing lumber to the project. The second is creating resistance to shear or lateral movement. Methods include diagonal block sets in rafters, forming an “X”; large custom made metal “L” and “T” braces where posts meet beams; and glued plywood sheathing over T & G pine which covers rafters. This last keeps roofing nails from showing through in an exposed rafter design.

A good carpenter/contractor should be able to accomplish a good design, but it can be beyond their skill set, so don’t hesitate to check up on proposals. For instance, an otherwise wonderful professional firm can do excellent aesthetic work but have little background in the structural needs of free standing post and beam supported roof projects, since these amount to a very small percentage of the overall building landscape.

Use recommended professional roof addition builders to create a strong, safe, beautiful, and long lasting patio roof–one that you will enjoy for decades.

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Troubleshooting Shower and Bathroom Leaks

January 8th, 2010

What should you do when signs of moisture show up on the ceiling underneath a second story bathroom? What causes soft spots in the floor or baseboard near your tub? How do you go about stopping your tub or shower valve from dripping? Where is the water on my floor coming from? It is so easy to ignore problems and warning signs because we fear a big bill, but to do so costs more in the long run. What things should I look out for?

Shower/Tub Splashing. The most common source of moisture for a bathroom floor is what splashes out of the tub, or around the shower curtain or even glass doors. Glass doors keep much more moisture where its supposed to be than shower curtains. Installing plastic corners onto your tub with adhesive will help your shower curtain to keep back moisture. Toweling up water that does spill right away helps a lot.
Toilet Leaks. Keep an eye on your toilet for leaks. Toilets can leak out of hairline cracks or if they are not secured tightly the wax ring can leak. For the former the toilet must be replaced. For the latter it needs to be reset with a new wax ring.
Sink Leaks. Watch for under sink moisture. Faucets can develop leaks which travel down the supply lines and drip onto the inside of your vanity. Waste plumbing can loosen and start leaking, especially if bumped. It pays to take everything out from underneath your cabinet and check for leaks.
Tub/Shower Plumbing. If you are sure water isn’t splashing from your tub or escaping your shower curtain, and your sink and toilet don’t leak, it is time to look more closely at your tub/shower plumbing. A common source of leaks is when trim isn’t tight. That is, where your tub supply and faucet handle covers attach to the wall. If loose, water streaming down the plumbing wall can enter these gaps and cause leaks. At our house the addition of a push button automated cleaning system, hung from the shower head supply arm, collected mist and splashed and directed water down the wall. The greater water quantity entering the gaps caused a problem. This simple grocery store product was responsible for changing the course of the “river.” I didn’t realize this until after I had removed a section of the drywall ceiling below for inspection. I tightened the trim and used silicone and ended up removing the cleaning device, but probably didn’t have to after eliminating the gaps.
Tub/Shower Drain Leaks. The tub or shower drain itself can leak if cracked or the putty seal has broken. A special wrench makes its removal and repair easier.
Tub/Shower Valve Leaks. If your shower or tub valve is dripping through the shower head or tub supply, your valve is not sealing. Most can be repaired whether it is a worn out washer or a washerless design such as ceramic ball.
In-Wall Pipe Leaks. It is rare for the valve to be leaking inside the wall, but like a pipe springing a leak it happens. For these repairs you must gain access, which means you will at least be replacing drywall, if access can be gained from the opposite side of the wall, and may be replacing your shower unit, tub surround, or tile or cultured stone surface.

For best results complete the preliminary trouble shooting steps and then call a recommended professional plumber. Whenever calling a pro, make sure everything is out of her way, and limit your chat time to what you want to pay for.